Paula Deen is where sass meets crass, where the homespun and folksy curdle into something with a sour aftertaste.
Her manner may be as sugary as her cooking, her smile as big as the hams she hawked for Smithfield. But she doesn't pause when she should. Doesn't question herself when she must.
There's a dearth of reflection, a deficit of introspection, and that's not just a generational thing and not just a regional thing, as some of her fans and other observers have begun to assert, unprepared to surrender their image of Paula the Southern Eccentric to the reality of Paula the Deep-Fried Boor.
It's a judgment thing. A sensitivity thing. It's what happens when your shtick proves as golden as hers and your world is larded with handlers who only say "yes" and fans who only say "more." You don't think anybody could possibly see anything untoward in you. So you stop looking for, adjusting to, and correcting the untoward impulses that are in every last one of us.
A fresh illustration of this traveled through cyberspace Monday, a video that shows Deen at The New York Times in October, being interviewed onstage by my colleague Kim Severson. The subject of race comes up.
"I feel like the South is almost less prejudiced," Deen says, "because black folks played such an integral part in our lives. They were like our family."
That statement alone is awkward - she's referring to servants, presumably - but she doesn't stop there. Motioning to the inky backdrop behind her and Severson, she notes that her beloved driver, bodyguard and assistant, Hollis Johnson, is as "black as that board."
"Come out here, Hollis," she adds, looking offstage and directing the audience's attention there. "We can't see you standing against that dark board."