The boundaries of Otter Tail County enclose some of Minnesota's prettiest country -- more than 1,000 lakes fill the valleys in a landscape of rolling hills. Two state parks (Glendalough and Maplewood) present excellent options for fall hikes and camping. The county is about 225 miles northwest of the Cities.

Drives

The 150-mile loop officially designated as the Otter Tail Scenic Byway can be done in a day or over several. The attractions aren't limited to pretty farms and fall color. Pelican Rapids sports the World's Largest Pelican. Ottertail has the World's Largest Otter. In Vining, you'll marvel at the giant metal forms of a swollen big toe, a pouring coffee cup and pliers squashing a bug. Veer off the trail to see the World's Largest Loon in Vergas. Byway maps can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce in Fergus Falls, the county seat and a good place to start the tour. The byway has plenty of signs, so a map isn't absolutely necessary (1-800-423-4571; www.ottertailcountry.com).

Where to stay

The Whistle Stop Bed and Breakfast in New York Mills is hard to beat if you are romantic about railroads (but be forewarned, the noise can be startling). The Pullman cars and caboose have been painstakingly renovated to preserve the original luster of the woodwork, cabinetry and seating. At the same time, you enjoy such modern conveniences as cable TV, whirlpool tubs and mini-fridges. The Whistle Stop also rents out a separate cottage (the Santa Fe) and the two rooms in the Victorian mansion are comfortable and inexpensive. The owners, Jann and Roger Lee, put on a great spread for breakfast. Rates range from $80 for a room in the house to $165 for either of the grand Pullman cars. Weekday rates are lower (1-800-328-6315; www.whistlestop bedandbreakfast.com).

There are dozens of lakeside resorts and rental cabins in the county. Call 1-800-423-4571 or go to www.ottertailcountry.com.

A thinker's town

New York Mills is nationally famous as the home of the annual Great American Think-Off, in which citizens are invited to write essays in response to a tough question. This year's topic was "Does immigration strengthen or threaten the United States?" The finalists met to debate the issue in New York Mills June 14. The sponsor of the contest, the New York Mills Regional Cultural Center, is a thought-provoking stop year-round. In a downtown storefront, the center doubles as an art gallery and maintains a lively schedule of speakers, performers and arts programs (1-218-385-3339). Details about the debate and winning essays can be found on the website www.kulcher.org (get it?)

Where to eat

I had my best meal of the trip at Riverside Coffee in Pelican Rapids. The bistro serves strong espresso, but also has a lively lunch menu and serves beer and wine. It's open only until 5 p.m. and is closed on Sundays. For lovers of huge portions of hearty fare and copious amounts of brew, the Cactus, a massive bar/restaurant in Perham, is an excellent option. Zorbas on Little Pine Lake is a combination Mexican/pizza place with a fun atmosphere and a deck on Little Pine Lake (two miles north of Perham on Hwy. 51).

CHRIS WELSCH