Ann's fish cake recipe for walleye worked beautifully for Mary with salmon, though Chris said it was best with cod or whitefish. I like it with trout. Any good dish will be different in the hands of a good cook. Most recipes are guidelines, open to interpretation, springboards for the imagination. The best have evolved over time.

This old-fashioned recipe for fish cakes (made in the Midwest with walleye and on the East Coast with cod) is sparked with cayenne pepper and brightened with curried mayonnaise. These are prettiest when made with pink salmon, but walleye, tuna, trout, cod and whitefish are terrific, too.

What's your signature dish? Please send your recipes, along with stories, to Beth Dooley at bdirish@earthlink.net or by mail to Star Tribune, Taste / One Great Dish, 425 Portland Av. S., Minneapolis, MN 55488. All letters, stories and recipe submissions become the property of Beth Dooley.