New skin-deep beauty treatments

From fat lashes to firmer skin, scalpel-free cosmetic treatments are the latest face of beauty.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
August 15, 2010 at 8:22PM
A model gets eye makeup applied before the fall 2006 Vera Wang collection is presented Thursday, Feb. 9, 2006 during fashion week in New York City.
A model gets eye makeup applied before the fall 2006 Vera Wang collection is presented Thursday, Feb. 9, 2006 during fashion week in New York City. (Associated Press/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Face it: Plastic surgery is out, high-tech beauty treatments are in.

According to a recent report by the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, the number of surgical cosmetic procedures performed fell 17 percent in 2009. Meanwhile, minimally invasive procedures such as facial fillers are on the rise. The latest beauty breakthroughs promise to tighten jowls, lengthen lashes and banish wrinkles -- all without a scalpel or the need for downtime.

Fresh fill

Selphyl, the newest treatment on the block, is not for the weak-stomached. In this procedure, a small amount of a patient's blood is drawn, spun down to concentrate the platelet-rich plasma, then injected into unwanted facial lines or scars. The whole process takes about 20 minutes, and the results are said to be immediate, promising improved collagen production during the following month or two.

Unlike other facial fillers such as Juvederm and Restylane, Selphyl does not contain any animal or synthetic components. "It's completely natural," says Dr. Charles Crutchfield III of Crutchfield Dermatology in Eagan, the only Twin Cities physician to offer the treatment. "There is virtually no risk of an allergic reaction. It's essentially you helping you."

Selphyl also costs less than other fillers ($1,300 for four areas) and results last longer (one or two years). And although it might sound futuristic, repurposing platelets to rejuvenate tissue isn't new; the technique has been used for years to treat athletic injuries and wounds.

A better Botox?

The first FDA-approved alternative to Botox was introduced last year with much fanfare. Like Botox, Dysport (pronounced "diss-port") contains Botulinum Toxin Type A, which paralyzes wrinkle-causing muscles when injected. Because of its lower molecular weight, however, Dysport kicks in more quickly, with results appearing in one or two days. Botox usually takes three to four. "Dysport is ideal for patients seeking instant gratification," says Dr. Elizabeth Hagberg, who offers both injectables at Skin Rejuvenation Clinic in Edina.

Although Dysport also is purported to last four months to Botox's three, Hagberg says that only about half of her patients noticed the longer staying power. And while consumers had hoped that the introduction of a competitor would drive down the cost of Botox, prices of the two treatments have remained comparable.

Pain-free lift

When skin heads south, more doctors are turning to noninvasive technology to defy gravity. At Zel Skin and Laser Specialists in Edina, Ultherapy is the new treatment of choice. Unlike traditional face-lifts and first-generation skin-tightening treatments such as Thermage, which uses heat, Ultherapy employs ultrasound waves to lift and tighten facial muscles and tissue without disturbing the upper layer of skin.

The procedure takes less than an hour and requires no anesthesia or recovery time. Results continue to improve over the next few months. Zel's Dr. Brian Zelickson says the treatment is best for people with mild to moderate skin laxity in the face and neck, and is even more effective when used in conjunction with fillers.

Lash out

No beauty breakthrough has caused more of a frenzy -- or controversy -- than Latisse. The first FDA-approved eyelash enhancer, this prescription-only formula promises something that many women clamor for: longer, thicker, darker lashes. Latisse also can be used to regrow eyebrows following chemotherapy. However, despite the drug's safety clearance, horror stories abound over Latisse's side effects, including discolored eyelids and permanent eye-color change.

Dr. Jaime Davis of Uptown Dermatology & Skin Spa in Minneapolis says that while some of her patients have experienced mild irritation from applying too much of the product, she has yet to see adverse reactions. Davis recommends that people use half of the amount suggested by the manufacturer, which she says works just as well and lasts twice as long.

Sometimes, less really is more.

Minneapolis-based writer and lifestyle expert Elizabeth Dehn is the founder of BeautyBets.com.

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ELIZABETH DEHN

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