Lat 14 Asian Eatery to debut in Golden Valley

Even as a kid, Ann Ahmed knew the exact route of her career path. This is a woman who wrote her first menu when was she was a sixth-grader.

"I've wanted a restaurant for as long as I can remember," she said. "If it's in you, you can't get it out of you."

While her family was in the business, she was encouraged to direct her aspirations elsewhere. Rather than attend culinary school, Ahmed enrolled at San Diego State University and pursued a degree in elementary education.

That's when the restaurant business called. Literally. She was on her way to her college commencement when the phone rang. Did she want to return to Minnesota and buy a restaurant?

She did, and she's been at the helm of Lemon Grass Thai Cuisine (8600 Edinburgh Centre Dr., Brooklyn Park, 763-494-8809, lemongrassmn.com) for the past 13 years.

Now she's embarking on the next phase of her career, launching her second restaurant, one that reflects her Laotian background.

She and her husband and business partner, Tarique Ahmed, are calling their new venture Lat 14 Asian Eatery (8815 7th Av. N., Golden Valley, lat14.com), so named because the 14th latitude runs through Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. It's opening in "early fall," said Ahmed, and is located in a decades-old former Perkins.

Guided by Shea Design of Minneapolis, the building is undergoing a remarkable transformation, erasing thoughts of Tremendous Twelves and Magnificent Sevens on both the exterior (the addition of a 50-seat patio helps, a lot) and the interior, which has been completely gutted and remade.

As for the food, "It's inspired by my roots," said Ahmed, who landed in Minnesota as a 4-year-old refugee. Joshua Walbolt, a Lemon Grass vet, has been tapped as Lat 14's executive chef.

"He's Cambodian-Thai," said Ahmed. "What we're going to be serving is what we've cooked alongside our grandmothers. For me, it's almost like coming home, it's about childhood. As we grow older, we seek comfort in the past."

Ahmed and Walbolt are testing recipes right now. Expect to encounter dishes along the lines of fish wrapped in banana leaves, seasoned with dill and steamed ("traditional and clean," said Ahmed) and a clear broth with rice noodles, a favorite in northern Laos.

"Like pho, but easier," said Ahmed. "No condiments. The bowl is ready when it's served, all the flavor is already in it. You just grab a spoon and chopsticks, and eat."

In the next few months, the owners of Copper Hen Cakery & Kitchen (2515 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., 612-872-2221, copperhenkitchen.com) are launching two restaurants.

The first, Gray Fox Coffee & Wine Bar (801 Marquette Av., Mpls.), is nearing completion on the first floor of the atrium of the former TCF Tower in downtown Minneapolis.

" 'We decided, 'Let's take the concept of Starbucks, and make it better,' " said Danielle Bjorling.

Breakfast will include sandwiches and colorful smoothie bowls, plus doughnuts from Cardigan Donuts (40 S. 7th St., Mpls., cardigandonuts.com). Lunch will offer hot and cold sandwiches, salads and Copper Hen's exceptional chocolate chip cookies. The plan for happy hour is to offer flatbreads as well as variations on cheese, fruit and chocolate boards to pair with wines and beers.

Meanwhile, construction continues on the Copper Cow (5445 Eden Prairie Road, Minnetonka), the couple's suburban burger-centric project; the Bjorlings are aiming for a late September-early October opening.

"In the restaurant world, it's a big deal to make it a year, and we want to celebrate," he said.

Post-party, Pettus plans to launch a tasting menu option: five courses nightly for $55, with an additional wine pairing option.

"It's a great vehicle for developing and refining dishes that will later go on the regular menu," he said.

Here's a not-the-State Fair option for Friday evening: On Aug. 24, Northern Coffeeworks (1027 Washington Av. S., Mpls., 612-353-4222, northerncoffeeworks.com) chef Jake Johnson is creating a special four-course dinner (with a vegetarian option) that will focus on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.

Seatings are at 6:30 and 7:30 p.m. Cost is $75 per person, and reservations are at northerncoffeeworksdinnerseries.brownpapertickets.com.