IF YOU GO
A car is essential for touring the vineyards of the Cote d'Or. Burgundy is about a three-hour drive from Paris, a straight shot on the A6 autoroute. Alternatively, trains to Dijon leave Gare de Lyon in Paris twice an hour, daily; the journey takes about one and a half hours. Cars can be rented at the Dijon TGV station. (The GPS unit I rented was invaluable in helping navigate the small roads of the region.)
WHERE TO TOUR
Chateau du Clos de Vougeot in Vougeot (www.tastevin-bourgogne.com). Admission for tours is 3.90 euros, or about $4.70 at $1.20 to the euro; students and children ages 8 to 16, 2.90 euros.
WHERE TO TASTE
Domaine François Gaunoux (23, rue du 11 Novembre, Meursault; www.gaunoux.com). A family-owned vineyard producing Goutte d'Or. Visits and tastings by appointment; call or e-mail ahead.
Louis Jadot (21, rue Eugene Spuller, Beaune; www.louisjadot.com). Though visits are generally reserved for wine professionals, try e-mailing to request an appointment. If staff members are available, they will welcome anyone for a tour and tasting.
Louis Latour (18, rue des Tonneliers, Beaune; www.louis latour.com). Visits and tastings by appointment.
Domaine Parent (Place de l'Eglise BP 8, Pommard; www.domaine-parent-bourgogne.com). Visits and tastings by appointment.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Villa Louise (9, rue Franche, Aloxe-Corton; www.hotel-villa-louise.fr) was built as a private house in the 17th century on the edge of a vineyard in Aloxe-Corton. Rooms are charming and cozy, with wood beams, hand-stitched quilts and views of the vines. Breakfast (15 euros) features home-cooked fruit, croissants, jams and fromage frais topped with sugar and drizzled with cream, a Burgundian specialty. Rates start at 85 euros in the low season; 98 in the high.
Hotel de la Poste (1-5, boulevard Clemenceau, Beaune; www. hoteldelapostebeaune.com) was built in the 17th century as a post house. Though Thomas Jefferson did not stay here -- according to his journals, he lodged at Chez Dion a l'Ecu de France, now defunct -- he probably changed horses here. Today, the hotel offers luxurious rooms decorated in an eclectic mix of toile, antiques and modern furniture. Rates start at 160 euros.
