DINING
Salt Lake City cuisine has come miles in a relatively short time, and that's clearer nowhere more than Pago (878 S. 900 East; pagoslc.com ) and Forage (370 E. 900 South; foragerestaurant.com ), both with fresh and daring bistro style menus. Red Iguana and Red Iguana 2 (736 W. North Temple and 866 W. South Temple; rediguana.com ) aren't fancy but have what many consider the best Mexican food in town. Drink beer at the Beerhive (128 S. Main St.; the only bar I've seen with a strip of frost across it to keep your glass cool) or brewpubs Squatters (147 W. Broadway; squatters.com ) and Red Rock Brewing Co. (254 S. 200 West; redrockbrewing.com ).
CHECKING IN
It's a chain, but Hotel Monaco (15 W. 200 South; monaco-saltlakecity.com ) does it right — charming rooms in a 90-year-old former bank building, complimentary massages and wine in the lobby from 5 to 6 p.m., and if you want it, a goldfish for your room. Grand America (555 S. Main St.; grandamerica.com ) offers one of the most luxurious stays in town. The Peery Hotel (110 W. Broadway; peeryhotel.com ) offers no luxury but is affordable ($92-$179 for most rooms) and is in its 100th year of operation. There are also several well-respected bed and breakfasts.
HIGHLIGHTS
Ski in the winter, hike in the summer in the nearby peaks. Check out the Great Salt Lake, especially Antelope Island, in the middle of the lake. Check out the intersection of Ninth and Ninth to eat and see a movie at Tower Theatre (876 E. 900 South; saltlakefilmsociety.org ), which shows films the massive theaters don't. Salt Lake City is the hub of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and the heart of the action, which is open to visitors, is Temple Square (50 W. North Temple; lds.org) .
CHICAGO TRIBUNE
