Where to stay

Best Western Hotel Henri II, 12 Rue du Faubourg Saint Nicolas: A half-block from the walled "ring" around the town center, this place is comfortable and affordable. Spotty Internet service, but that's my fault for wanting to be online while on vacation.

Where to eat

Caves Madeleine, 8 Rue Faubourg Madeleine: Winemakers' hangout with wonderful rustic food, from pureed vegetable soup to dry-aged beef.

La Ciboulette, 69 Rue de Lorraine, Beaune: Charming mom-and-pop (French-style) spot; great seafood, killer crème caramel.

Le Caveau des Arches, 10 Blvd. Perprueil, Beaune: Romantic; seriously tasty beef bourgignon.

Ma Cuisine, Passage Sainte-Hélène, Beaune: Stupendous food makes up for indifferent service.

Where to shop

Patisserie Bouché, 1 Place Monge, Beaune: one of France's best chocolatiers.

Le Caveau de Chassagne-Montrachet, Rue de Village, Chassagne-Montrachet: An amazing selection of white wines, plus a cool wine bar.

Two exquisite cheese shops in Beaune: Le Tast'fromages, 23 Rue Carnot, and Alain Hess Fromage, 7 Place Carnot