IF YOU GO
Getting there: Suomenlinna is accessible only by water. Helsinki Regional Transport Authority (HSL) runs ferries between Helsinki's Market Square and Suomenlinna (www.hsl.fi.). The ferry system is easy and inexpensive, and passages are frequent. Even in the winter, when the harbor occasionally freezes, icebreakers clear the way for continuous ferry crossings. You can buy tickets from a machine or from a multilingual Finn who will give you a map and information to peruse during the 15- to 20-minute passage.
Getting around: Suomenlinna is a car-free zone. Wear flat shoes for negotiating Suomenlinna's cobbled streets and gravelly paths.
Museums and more: While you're at the visitors center, you can see the "Suomenlinna Experience" film, purchase a pass to the museums, use free Wi-Fi, shop and sign on for a guided walking tour. We preferred the flexibility of exploring on our own and felt well guided by the comprehensive map that was provided and by the knowledgeable and friendly docents and staff throughout Suomenlinna. Check in the visitors center for details or plan ahead using the comprehensive site www.suomenlinna.fi.
WILLIAM GURSTELLE AND karen k. hansen
