Savannah is loaded with B&Bs. For an extensive list, go to the Association of Historic Inns of Savannah (www.historicinnsofsavannah.com).

One small, modestly priced B&B that comes highly recommended is the Green Palm Inn (548 E. President St.; 1-912-447-8901; 1-888-606-9510). Rates: $149-$229.

For those who are not B&B people (I'm not), I found the DoubleTree in the Savannah Historic District to be well located and reasonably priced (411 W. Bay St. 1-912-790-7000). Rates from $129.


The Olde Pink House (on Reynolds Square, 23 Albercorn; 1-912-232-4286). A national landmark, this Georgian mansion is a classic old-fashioned dining choice. Built on land granted by the crown of England in 1771, it features such standards as low country crab soup, steaks and chops.

Alligator Soul (114 Barnard St.; 1-912-232-7899). Funky basement digs with exposed brick walls. Try the shrimp and grits, the gumbo and the alligator and crawfish cakes.

Mrs. Wilkes' (107 W. Jones St.; 1-912-232-5997). A Savannah must. Save your calories for this embarrassment of riches featuring more than 20 family-style dishes to pass around. Lunch weekdays only, 11 a.m.- 2 p.m.

Soho South (12 W. Liberty St.; 1-912-233-1633). Great healthy salads and soups for lunch. It gets busy on weekends.