IF YOU GO
Deciding how to spend your time outside the walls of Old San Juan can be a challenge because Puerto Rico is big, and there's so much to do. Many people simply spend their time at one of the many all-inclusive resorts that line the beachfront. Using Luquillo as a base, I spent my days building sand castles at Luquillo Beach, hiking in a rain forest and island hopping.
LUQUILLO
Where: About 30 miles from San Juan.
Lodging: I stayed at the Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn (www.luquillosunrise.com) which is just across the street from the beach. Rooms are spotless, staff is charming and some of the 14 rooms have ocean views. My nightly rate was $125, including a delicious homemade breakfast served in a room overlooking the ocean.
Restaurants: My far and away favorite restaurant within walking distance from my hotel was Pasta y Pablo, where chef Freddie is likely to step out of the tiny kitchen to check on your food. Don't miss the shrimp with coconut rice; I had it three nights in a row. Another popular option is Sandy's Seafood, which is a block from the main square and draws people from all over Puerto Rico. Try the jalapeños stuffed with lobster and shrimp.
EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST
Where: About 45 minutes southeast of San Juan.
Lodging: Luquillo Beach is about 20 minutes from the park entrance, but there are dozens of other options, including a few all-inclusive resorts in Fajardo and some small resorts that border the forest.
Eating: A couple of modest food kiosks inside the park serve local fare, so no need to pack a lunch.
Cost: Entrance to the El Portal Visitor Center is $3 for adults.