How to make eggnog — and turn the leftovers into luxe mini French toast

I love Christmas Eve, and my granddad, a gregarious New Jersey state senator, did too. Every year he’d whip up a big bowl of eggnog for a Christmas Eve party before midnight Mass. It’s a tradition I honor, including his eggnog. Our friends will accept a cup, take a few sips, declare it delicious and then ask for a beer. Let’s admit it, this beverage is not what you want — or should — drink for an hour or more.

The name eggnog was derived from “noggin,” the medieval wooden vessel in which the beverage was served. Early colonists swapped out the British version’s pricey sherry for cheap Caribbean rum or moonshine. I set out a selection of spirits and let guests choose their own.

With leftover eggnog, one party leads to the next with overnight French toast. It’s easy to assemble, hold in the refrigerator and bake off Christmas morning — or any time over the long holiday weekend. The scent of nutmeg will mingle with brewing coffee, sure to tug any lazy heads from bed.

Overnight French toast is also a great way to dispatch leftover bread. Think challah and croissants, but any bread will do. Vary the spices to your liking; a dusting of cardamom and ginger along with the nutmeg is also nice. Garnish with bright tangerine, a lick of syrup, a dollop of cream.

If you still have eggnog, don’t stop there. Whisk it into the batters for coffeecake, muffins, waffles, pancakes and cheesecake. Add a splash to coffee, hot chocolate and tea; whir up a smoothie; pour it on oatmeal or granola. ‘Tis the season, and eggnog comes just once a year.

Serves 8.

This variation of my grandfather’s recipe calls for cooking a custard base to avoid the dangers of raw eggs. It’s rich and spicy, especially good with a shot of rum, and makes a wonderful next-day French toast. If you’re in a pinch, pick up a good, commercial eggnog and increase the spice to taste. From Beth Dooley.

Fill a deep pan or very large bowl half full of ice and set aside.

Pour the milk into a saucepan and set over medium-high heat and stir constantly until tiny bubbles form around the edge of the pan. Pull it off the stove before the milk boils.

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the sugar into the egg yolks, continuously whisking until the mixture is pale and very thick. Slowly whisk a cup of the hot milk into the yolks then pour the mixture back into the pan. Set the pan over low heat and stir continuously until the mixture is thickened. Quickly stir in the cream and vanilla.

Transfer to a bowl, set the bowl in the larger bowl or pan of ice and stir as the mixture cools down.

In a mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold these into the cooled eggnog. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Ladle into cups or glasses and garnish with grated nutmeg.

Use Kaiser or challah rolls or use leftover bread. If you’re out of homemade eggnog (lucky you), substitute commercial eggnog. If you don’t make this the night before, just bake right after assembling. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

Cut deep slashes into each of the rolls to better absorb the batter. Generously butter 6 jumbo muffin cups.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, eggnog, vanilla, nutmeg and salt. Submerge the rolls into the egg mixture until nearly all of the liquid has been absorbed. Fit the rolls into the muffin cups. Distribute any leftover eggnog mixture over the rolls. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the rolls until light, a bit puffy, golden brown, and a sharp knife inserted into the center comes up clean, about 35 to 45 minutes. Remove and allow the rolls to cool a little. Run a sharp knife around the edges of each muffin cup and gently pry the rolls onto a serving platter or plate.