Attention: Men. If a guy were to design a kitchen for his "man cave," it would look something like Minneapolis' newest downtown bar, Devil's Advocate.
Here's the concept: beer and meatballs. Because what else do you really need?
"The idea," owner Erik Forsberg says, "is for people to come in expecting one thing and discover that it's something else."
Oh, so we need more than beer and balls? With 40 craft taps and a Choose Your Own Adventure meatball menu, Devil's Advocate seems to be arguing for beer and bar food done differently. You'll get no argument here.
The bar opened last weekend at a downtown address that's seen three restaurants open and close in as many years. After Hell's Kitchen vacated in 2008, the New Calhoun Grill had a short stint, followed by Subo and the Inn. Forsberg has kept much of the Inn's rustic charm -- exposed brick and hardwood floors -- but expanded the bar to fit 30 stools. Forsberg thinks he has the formula to make this location work. While the last two spots focused on dinner and late-night, he hopes to build on lunch and happy hour.
For Forsberg, Devil's Advocate is almost a restart of his own career. The 38-year-old spent the past decade toiling away in the downtown party scene, first running other people's joints and then his own with the Ugly Mug. Keeping that quasi party bar afloat was no easy task. Forsberg led it through the smoking ban, the recession and the crossfire from nearby Karma last year. He's still in downtown, but far away from the club scene.
"We all have to grow up sometime," he said.
The case for meatballs
