Good eats on your way through Missouri

The stretch of Interstate 55 that rolls south from St. Louis toward Arkansas and destinations way beyond is not what one would call a fine-dining corridor.

But I have traveled that route for decades while growing up in New Madrid County, Mo., and on family visits back to the farm in the years since. In the process, I've discovered some non-fast-food places that offer enjoyable and convenient refueling for anyone motoring that way. Consider the following if you're trekking to the Mississippi River side of the Show Me State:

IRON BARLEY

Featured on "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" as well as "Man v. Food," this unassuming neighborhood spot is just minutes west of I-55 in a south St. Louis neighborhood. On our recent visit, we loved the smoked-duck salad, which sadly does not seem to be on the current menu. But regulars -- and there are many, from near and far -- rave about everything from the signature oak-roasted pork to the "sammiches" and unique beer selection. Keep the tab down by ordering a Monte Christo double hot dog or the Philly Beef & Chez. Or splurge on the pricier yes-they're-worth-it entrees. 5510 Virginia Av., St. Louis; 1-314-351-4500

LAMBERT'S CAFE

The immortal words of Yogi Berra come to mind: "Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded." What that means when it comes to Lambert's is that an extensive network of strategically placed billboards ("Lambert's Cafe Home of Throwed Rolls") and a long history of recommendations from road-food notables such as Jane and Michael Stern and the Travel Channel attract a stream of hungry travelers, many of whom arrive via tour buses. This all conspires for waits so long that locals often give the place a pass or plan visits outside peak lunch and dinner hours. But diners stop by for a reason: a lively party atmosphere and a bounty of decent food supplemented by free "pass arounds," including fried okra, fried potatoes, macaroni and tomatoes, black-eyed peas, and sorghum and honey.

Don't look for truffle oil on the menu, but do watch for hot rolls that servers launch (or are "throwed") at diners who raise a hand or happen to make eye contact. How touristy is this place? Well, there's a gift shop you can visit on your way out the door. If you pick up a Lambert's Cafe T-shirt, you might have to go up a size to fit over your freshly expanded gut. Cash only; ATM in the lobby. Throwed rolls (that actually haven't been throwed) are available for carryout; $5.89 per dozen. 2305 E. Malone Av., Sikeston; 1-573-471-4261

DEXTER BAR-B-QUE

From Lambert's Cafe, it's just 10 minutes west along Malone and one short jog north on Sikeston's Main Street to this local favorite, which specializes in dry-rub pork ribs. The Chicago Tribune's Kevin Pang stopped by on a recent barbecue road trip and declared the pulled pork among the best he has had. On my family visits to the area, we make sure the logistics are in place -- the place is closed on Sundays -- to order and pick up the proper number of ribs to feed the gathering crowd at the farm. There's not much atmosphere in the restaurant, but it's modern, clean and welcoming, with friendly service. And who cares about atmosphere when you're biting into the Dexter Bar-B-Que sandwich on Texas toast (with slaw and baked beans, of course) and your dining companions let you steal a couple of ribs off their plates? 124 N. Main St., Sikeston; 1-573-471-6676

MIKE'S MEATS

If retired schools Superintendent Mike Barnes had prevailed over wife Jane, you would be able to sit down in his restaurant and order off a menu featuring boneless smoked-turkey breasts, barbecued chicken wings, grilled pork chops and chopped butt, with sides of baked beans and green beans seasoned with a touch of sweetness. But Jane said no to a restaurant.

So instead, Barnes built a new home with a generously sized kitchen, big enough for two people to maneuver in without falling over each other, Jane says. Her husband now takes preorders (three days' notice) for those aforementioned menu items from his home in a relatively new subdivision in the Mississippi River town of New Madrid. Barnes' smoker, parked just outside the home's garage, is equipped with wheels, for traveling to contests. He stokes it with lump charcoal and hickory (applewood for the pork), adds the meat and lets the magic happen.

The turkey breasts are moist, with just the right amount of smokiness and infused with Barnes' special blend of spices that he tucks between the skin and breast meat before the breasts are placed in the smoker. His handiwork ($25 per breast; 8 pounds minimum) became so popular at our family gatherings that my sister and brother-in-law eventually stopped bothering with the traditional roasted turkey at Christmas and instead started ordering a supply of smoked breasts from Barnes and his home-based business.

So, what should you do? Because you'll be full, having just eaten in St. Louis and/or Sikeston, you'll order a smoked breast (or two) in advance and ask Barnes to preslice it. Maybe you'll also order his award-winning chicken wings. It all makes for a good one-handed snacking after you wheel your way back to I-55 (a 20-minute detour) and your final destination.

If you planned correctly, you'll have a dozen of Lambert's rolls with you -- perfect for making your own little on-the-go turkey sandwiches. (The leftovers freeze nicely.) To order, e-mail Barnes at mbnmcyahoo.com or call 1-573-748-0006.