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Getting the hang of it: Cabinets

If you have the time, ambition and a helper, here are step-by-step instructions for hanging cabinets.

March 17, 2012 at 3:49PM
Remodeling your kitchen? Look for cabinet cases of heavy fiberboard or plywood construction. (Jill Anna Greenberg/Philadelphia Inquirer/KRT)
Remodeling your kitchen? Look for cabinet cases of heavy fiberboard or plywood construction. (Randy Salas — KRT/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
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If you're remodeling your kitchen yourself or want to re-use existing or salvaged kitchen cabinets elsewhere in your home, hanging your own can save hundreds of dollars, Krista Williamson says. The owner of K2Workshops in Overland Park, Kan., offers classes on home repair and remodeling, and shares these tips for DIYers. First tip: Hanging cabinets is a two-person job.

Prep the area first by patching imperfections and priming and painting the walls. Remove cabinet doors, drawers and shelves to reduce weight and allow easy access for mounting. Mark each cabinet door and drawer so you'll know what goes where.

MEASURE

1To mark the location of your upper cabinets, determine where your lower cabinets will be. If you think your floor is uneven, find the high spot on the floor. Measure the height of your lower cabinets and mark that spot from the high spot. Measure up 54 inches from the high spot for the bottom of your upper cabinets. You may need to measure higher for shorter cabinets.

2Create level pencil or chalk lines through those two marks (a laser level or 4-foot level works best).

3Using a stud finder, mark your studs along the top line. If you don't have that tool, look for visual clues of nails or screws 15 inches apart.

HANG THE CABINETS

1Attach a 1-by-4 to the wall where you've marked your studs, matching the top of the board to the line.

2Start in a corner or wherever is most logical. With a helper, lift the first cabinet into place, resting it on the 1-by-4. Drill holes in the cabinet at the studs, and using 3-inch or longer screws, attach the cabinet to the wall at the top. If there is a hanging rail (a thicker material at the top inside), attach the cabinet through it. If not, attach the cabinet through the back of the box at the top.

3Use a level vertically to verify that the cabinet face is plumb. If not, shim by using spacers at top or bottom, and install the remaining hanging screws.

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4Lift the next cabinet into position beside the first one on the 1-by-4. Use hand clamps to clamp the two cabinets' face frames together. Repeat the mounting procedure for the cabinet. Then drill pilot holes through one side of the face frame, and screw the two cabinet frames together for a tight fit.

5Remove the 1-by-4, and fill the holes with spackle. Reinstall your doors and shelves. Caulk or use molding to cover any open joints between the cabinets and walls.

INSTALLING LOWER CABINETS

1Position the first, most logical cabinet (a corner or a sink). Shim the cabinet as needed to bring the top to the lower-cabinet chalk line on the wall. Verify that the face frame is plumb, and shim as needed.

2Drill holes in the back of the cabinet at the studs. Using 3-inch screws, attach the cabinet to the wall.

3Set the next cabinet in place, shim as needed and clamp the face frames of the adjoining cabinets. Then attach the second cabinet to the wall. Drill pilot holes, and screw the face frames together.

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STACY DOWNS, Kansas City Star

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