"Gathering place by the waters." This widely accepted definition of the name "Milwaukee" fits the city perfectly. It's located on the western shore of Lake Michigan, and three rivers converge in the city's downtown: the Milwaukee, the Kinnickinnic and the Menomonee. Such access to water made the city a perfect place for early settlers, from American Indians, to German beer barons, to Polish factory workers.

CHECKING IN

Aloft (1230 N. Old World 3rd St.; 1-414-226-0122; www.alofthotels.com/Milwaukee) is the latest addition to the city's sleep scene. Cool and comfortable, this hotel offers hip gathering places such as Re:mix Lounge, the perfect spot to unwind after a long day ... or gear up for an evening of fun. The Ambassador (2308 W. Wisconsin Av.; 1-414-345-5000; www.ambassadormilwaukee .com) provides a touch of Art Deco elegance to Milwaukee's near west side; check out its fine dining restaurant, Envoy.

DINING

New hotspots include: Screaming Tuna (106 W. Seeboth St.; 1-414-763-1637; www.screamingtuna.com) offers splendid sushi with one of the best views around. Zaafaran (780 N. Jefferson St.; 1-414-226-2660; www.zaafaran.us.com) is an upscale Thailand-meets-India dining destination, and Harbor House (550 N. Harbor Dr.; 1-414-395-4900; harborhousemke.com), has a sumptuous raw seafood bar.

Milwaukee Food Tours

www.milwaukeefoodtours.com; 1-800-979-3370. Advance purchase required; custom tours can be created.

MANYA KACZKOWSKI