It's fall and that means it's time to caulk. Filling holes may be the last thing you want to do on a fall weekend, but time spent caulking now will pay off in dollars saved and fewer shivers come winter.
The U.S. Department of Energy says that properly sealing cracks and gaps in your home can significantly reduce heating costs and improve your home's durability. Those very small cracks can seem insignificant, yet they add up to lots of lost energy, and you can stop that with caulk.
Outdoor Caulking 101 What to use: Selecting the right caulk may be the hardest part of the job. Visit any home or hardware store and you'll see a confusing array of caulks: acrylic, silicone, siliconized latex, etc.
You can avoid confusion by remembering what's needed outdoors: caulk that is airtight, waterproof, flexible enough to withstand temperature extremes without cracking, and -- because you don't want to do this regularly -- long-lasting. Silicone caulk is all of the above.
Indoors, acrylic and other water-based caulks are fine, but they will shrink, crack and deteriorate when exposed to the elements. Even if the label says "siliconized" or "plus silicone," these caulks won't work as well as 100 percent silicone, said Brian Holden, with Momentive Performance Materials and GE brand caulks.
Unlike water-based caulks that clean up with soap and water, silicone caulk requires a solvent, such as paint thinner, for cleanup. And while many silicone caulks cannot be painted, some can, such as GE Silicone II XST (paintable formula).
Where it goes: Obviously, any place where you can see light sneaking out of the house when it's dark outdoors, or light leaking in when it's dark inside needs caulk, said Holden. As you walk the perimeter of your house, take note of these caulk-worthy areas: around windows, doors, dryer vent, cable and telephone entry points and where the house meets the foundation. More information on where to seal is at www.stoptheshivers.com.
How it's done: Caulk comes in tubes that are loaded into dispensing guns. As you pull the handle, a "bead" of caulk comes out of the nozzle. By "laying" the bead along the crack, you fill the gap and stop the leak.