Finally! Revamped Lex opening in St. Paul

January 25, 2017 at 6:09PM

The next era for the Lexington (1096 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-289-4990, thelexmn.com), a historic restaurant in St. Paul's Summit Hill neighborhood, is about to begin.

Nearly three years after buying the space, Josh Thoma (Smack Shack) and chef Jack Riebel, (formerly of Butcher & the Boar) and Kevin Fitzgerald will open the doors to the long-awaited remake next month.

When they bought the Lexington in April 2014, it appeared to be a standard turnaround. Then they discovered 17 critical fire violations, asbestos in the ceiling and no certificate of occupancy for the restaurant.

Five and a half million dollars later, they're finally ready to usher in diners.

The Lexington started taking reservations on Monday (Jan. 23) and in less than an hour booked the first six days, Thoma said.

"Everything is new, from the electrical, the plumbing, structural, ventilation, lighting," Thoma said. "It was almost like finding a Ferrari in a barn state and having to restore it from the frame up."

The result is a crisply new, but classic take, on the supper club that opened in 1935 and was closed in June 2013. While nearly everything had to be replaced for its second debut on Feb. 9, much of the original charm of the Lexington remains. The carved wood paneling that serves as walls in the 100-seat dining area has been refinished and much of the original artwork, which dates from the early 1900s, has been restored. The bronze chandeliers were redone with new crystals. The nostalgic feeling of a past era is firmly intact.

Outside, there's a fresh coat of paint, but the iconic facade is staying.

As for the menu, Riebel is "bringing back some classics, but elevating them." The Lex salad — an iceberg lettuce concoction with a signature dressing — could make a comeback, in a new way. A host of Old Fashioned preparations — from Wisconsin-brandy-style to a tequila variant — highlight a "tipples" list.

Eventually, the Lexington will add lunch and brunch service, as well as a rooftop patio in the summertime, but for now they're sticking with dinner as well as a "social hour" from 3 to 5 p.m.

Downtown doughnuts

A new doughnut shop is expected to open in downtown Minneapolis skyways this spring.

Cardigan Donuts (33 S. 6th St., Mpls., cardigandonuts.com), the project of a local corporate finance professional, aims to offer up 10 doughnut varieties daily — including raised, cake and old-fashioned — when it opens its doors in City Center in May.

"I've been working in the skyway for 12 years, and I just love it down here. I've been thinking about the concept for a long time," said owner Justin Bedford.

He said he's long thought about getting into the hospitality industry, and his pastry chef — a local veteran whose name he did not want to disclose yet— will make the doughnuts fresh in Unit 207 of City Center, a former mobile phone store. He expects Cardigan to start with classic doughnuts before moving on to more artisanal selections with creative toppings and fillings. The flavors will rotate daily. Cardigan will have a modest seating and lounge area, with beverages and other food expected later.

Around the Twin Cities

Jun (730 Washington Av. N., Mpls., 612-208-0706, junnorthloop.com), an "authentic" Sichuan Chinese restaurant boasting house-made noodles and baijiu cocktails, opened in the North Loop last weekend.

Meanwhile, Smith & Porter (428 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-249-5503), a casual new American restaurant in the new Abiitan Mill City Building, debuted Tuesday (Jan. 24) in the Mill District. The eatery, helmed by chef Kirt Akerstrom (most recently of Red Cow) is open for dinner daily.

The Great Northern — the Twin Cities' new winter experience — kicks off on Friday, with a 10-day lineup of outdoor sports and food as well as other celebrations. Check out thegreatnorthernfestival.com for a complete schedule.

Read full reviews and other restaurant news at startribune.com/dining.

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Amelia Rayno

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