Getting there: Getting to Madeline from the Twin Cities takes about five hours by car, including the 20-minute ferry ride, which departs from Bayfield, Wis. The ferry runs from 7 a.m. until 9 p.m. (later on Thursday and weekends) and for much of the day runs every half-hour. Round-trip rates: $25 for cars, $11.50 for adults and $6 for children (www.madferry.com; 1-715-747-2051).

Where to stay: Many people rent homes. Check with Madeline Island Vacations (www.madelineisland vacations.com; 1-715-747-2388) and the Inn on Madeline Island, which also offers condos and hotel rooms (www.madisland.com; 1-800-822-6315). Great camping is available at both Big Bay Town Park (1-715-747-2801) and Big Bay State Park (1-715-747-6425).

Island eats: Head to Grandpa Tony's for pizza or pasta dinners (1-715-747-3911) or the Pub Restaurant for whitefish sandwiches (1-715-747-6322). But the place to go for high-minded fare is Lotta's Lakeside Cafe (1-715-747-2033).

Stock up on laundry detergent and Bayfield berries at the Island Store, but break through the cranky exterior of the proprietors by buying the great food they produce, including ribs and a flavor-packed concoction called "island potatoes" (1-715-747-6635). Lori's Store also offers essentials (1-715-747-5200).

Entertainment: Rent bikes and mopeds from Motion to Go (1-715-747-6585). Apostle Island Kayaks (www.apostle islandskayaks.com; 1-715-747-3636) and Bog Lake Outfitters (canoes; www.madelineisland.com/boglake; 1-715-747-2685) can get you on the water. Don't miss the camaraderie at Tom's Burned Down Cafe (www.toms burneddowncafe.com; 1-715-747-6100).

More info: The Madeline Island Chamber of Commerce: www.madelineisland.com or 1-888-475-3386.

KERRI WESTENBERG