On a warm spring morning this year, while hiking through an arid and rocky canyon, I could have sworn I was in Colorado. But I was in eastern Iowa, in a park with the odd name of "Mines of Spain." A short drive from there, atop a commanding bluff, was a grand view of the Mississippi River and three states. There lies the monument to Julien Dubuque, who came from Quebec and received permission from the Mesquakie natives to mine lead on this land, which was under Spanish control.
Such is Dubuque, where French, Spanish and Indian history flow together and where bluffs meet water. Like all Mississippi River towns, it is rich in history as well as scenery. River trade may have diminished since its lumbering and mining days, but not the reasons for visiting this city of 60,000.
Dubuque is made up of three areas to explore: the Mississippi River, the bluffs and the historic but thriving downtown.
On the river
The Port of Dubuque, a revitalized riverside complex, has boatloads of attractions for all ages. The anchor of the development is the National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium. You'll find displays of river history and geography, all manner of fish swimming in tanks representing ecosystems, and hands-on kids' activities so splashy that plastic smocks are provided. Admission is $15 for adults, $13 for seniors (age 65 and older), and $10 for ages 3-17. Admission to the 3-D/4-D Theater (4-D includes effects such as wind and mist that correspond to the action onscreen) is $6 for one show, $9 for a double feature (350 E. 3rd St., Port of Dubuque; 1-800-226-3369; www.rivermuseum.com).
The Riverwalk, a boardwalk along the riverbank, spruced up with potted flowers and benches, makes for a pleasant stroll to the historic Star Brewery building. There you can stop at the tasting room of the family-owned Stone Cliff Winery (1-563-583-6100, www.stone cliffwinery.com). Or have a drink and a bite at the Star Restaurant and Ultra Lounge. The patio provides lovely views (600 Star Brewery Dr., Suite 200; 1-563-556-4800; www.dbqstar.com).
Up high
For an eagle's-eye view of the region, Eagle Point Park, in northeast Dubuque, sits on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River, Lock and Dam No. 11 and the tri-state area of Iowa, Illinois and Wisconsin. You'll get sweeping views of the Mississippi -- wide, shimmering and lined with tree-covered bluffs -- as well as boats and barges passing through the lock, and if you're lucky, a few of the bald eagles that nest in the bluffs. Admission is $1 per car, and the road is open May 1 to Oct. 31. At other times of year, visitors may park near Eagle Point's rear entrance and walk in (1-563-589-4263; www.cityofdubuque.org).
