For the Mark Twain Trail: From downtown Lucerne, take one of the city’s many public boats to the lakeside village of Weggis. Pick up the trail near the Mark Twain memorial marker along the Weggis lakefront. More information on the trail: www.rigi.ch. More information on using boats for public transportation: www.lakelucerne.ch.
Take the train: Rigi Kaltbad (or the Rigi baths) is the mountain’s most visitor-friendly destination, with the highest concentration of restaurants, hotels, even a playground. Non-hikers can get to Rigi Kaltbad via cable car from Weggis. Cog rail is the easier option, plus the railway continues all the way to the summit. From downtown Lucerne, take a boat to the lakeside village of Vitznau. The RigiBahn station is just steps from the dock. More information on RigiBahn: www.rigi.ch.
Eat/sleep: Options in Rigi Kaltbad include Hotel Rigi Kaltbad (www.hotelrigi kaltbad.ch), Hotel Alpina (www.alpina-rigi.ch) and Hotel Bergsonne (www.berg sonne.ch). Or there’s the Rigi Kulm-Hotel (www.rigikulm.ch), where Twain stayed on his third night.
Spiritual retreat: The Felsentor center is also accessible via the RigiBahn. More information: www.felsentor.ch.
Tip: Design lovers, don’t miss the dazzling new Mineralbad & Spa Rigi-Kaltbad by Swiss architect Mario Botta. The spa opened in 2014, giving folksy Rigi Kaltbad a shot of luxe modernism. More information: www.mineralbad-rigikaltbad.ch.