Crash course: Lawrence, Kan.

Forget the Wizard of Oz and get familiar with the cheery red and blue Jayhawk mascot and the Rock Chalk chant when Mount Oread, the hilltop home of the University of Kansas, rises on the prairie.

The school of 28,000 renowned for its architecture and journalism schools rests on the leafy high point of Lawrence, Kan. Students here quickly adapt to the climbs to get to classes. The campus is the biggest star in the town, gloriously reflecting sunlight on the hilltop.

The campus forms the heart of a community that offers much more than college bars and cheap pizza. Artistic and writing communities thrive in Lawrence, where dining options lean toward fresh, delicious fare.

The town is a former hippie hangout; Beat writer William S. Burroughs lived there until his death in 1997. Acclaimed young poet Patricia Lockwood, whom the New York Times called "the smutty-metaphor queen of Lawrence," lives here with her husband.

With the possible exception of Kansas basketball, nothing is more revered in Lawrence than the Jayhawk, the mythical bird that seems to appear on everything here from car bumpers to T-shirts, key chains, cups and caps. The bird's ubiquity speaks to the level of KU pride here, stretching from the old commercial heart of town on Massachusetts Street (better known as Mass Street) to the McMansions out west.

A walk up and down a few blocks of Mass Street is a must. In recent years, chains have pried their way in among the old reliables, but the locals still rule the road.

For the first-year student, nothing says, "study hard and good luck" like a new Jayhawk sweatshirt or a sassy T-shirt. The KU book store at 1301 Jayhawk Blvd. in the student union is the gold standard for Jayhawk items, but many shops along Mass Street sell such goodies, too, including the Jock's Nitch (jocks­nitch.com).

Sunflower Outdoor & Bike Shop is a long-time, friendly independent shop. Stop in and get a signature water bottle, slap a new Jayhawk sticker on it and start feeling like a native (www.sunfloweroutdoorandbike.com).

During men's basketball home games, the Phog Allen Fieldhouse is electrifying. No matter the quality of the visiting team, the refurbished building fills to the max. Finagle a ticket, get there early for the shoot-around and don't miss the pre-game video to get a sense of the reverence for the hallowed hall. "The Phog" gets mentioned often in the national media as a basketball temple. The historical building now houses a not-to-be-missed basketball museum.

Go for a run or a bike ride. Lawrence's riding and trail-running communities organize multiple outings a week. On the southwestern edge of town sits Clinton Lake, a reservoir surrounded by 35 square miles of federally maintained land. The Kansas River "Sand­rat Trails" provide another option, as do the wide sidewalks on the campus hills.

The city's Bottleneck bar is a regular stop for talented live musical acts on the verge, some of which appeal to those well beyond their undergraduate years (thebottlenecklive.com).

For the more sedate tastes, the Spencer Museum of Art, settled between the student union and the Campanile, offers a satisfying sampler of art from historical to modern and avant garde in both the permanent and temporary collections. Admission is free and access is easy (spencerart.ku.edu).

The Eldridge hotel at 701 Massachusetts St. is in the center of the shopping and dining action, just a few minutes' drive down the hill from campus (1-800-527-0909; eldridgehotel.com).

Plenty of reliable and tasty independent, hometown eateries thrive here, especially up, down and near Massachusetts Street.

The Free State Brewing Co. is de rigueur for families in search of reliably comfortable food and a communal vibe. Don't be put off by a big crowd on the pub's patio. Get an Ad Astra Ale (the house standby named for the state motto: To the Stars) or a seasonal brew and relax. The wait won't be long and the food will be reliably good standard fare (1-785-843-4555; freestatebrew ing.com).

Miltons, just off of Mass Street at 901 New Hampshire St., serves up eggs Benedict in a fabulous Hollandaise and beautiful cappuccinos in the mornings. The adult beverages and hearty sandwiches come out later. The menu satisfies all and, more important, the vibe is classic Lawrence, where math professors chitchat with farmers in town for the market across the street (1-785-856-0663; miltonscafe.com).

715 at 715 Massachusetts Street is a local, upper-scale treat for a celebratory dinner. Delicious handmade pastas and a rich Bolognese sauce are specialties along with locally sourced meats and a massive wine list (1-785-856-7150; 715mass.com).

Star Tribune staff reporter Rochelle Olson graduated from KU. (612-673-1747 • twitter: @rochelleolson)