Concept pub Crooked Pint tries downtown

I didn't think I was going to like the Crooked Pint Ale House. I know that sounds pessimistic of me.

For one, no bar has been able to make this Washington Avenue address work in downtown Minneapolis -- not the 501 Club and definitely not Matty B's. (Remember that place? Me, neither.)

When it comes to cutting-edge concepts, the Crooked Pint's pedigree isn't exactly earth-shattering, either. It's an offshoot of the Green Mill company, the Twin Cities-based restaurant chain that has grown to 28 locations spread across the Midwest and annual revenue of $60 million. But CEO Paul Dzubnar has kept his corporate eye focused on smaller Minneapolis projects, as well. In 2010, he became a partner in the Town Hall Brewery, helping the Seven Corners brewpub open the Town Hall Tap in south Minneapolis.

Around that time, he began thinking about a new craft-beer-focused bar, one that could be spun off into a franchise. Thus, the Crooked Pint.

"If you look at the places that are doing well and the places that are ripe for growth, it's the neighborhood bars, like the Blue Door Pub, the Groveland Tap and Matt's," Dzubnar said. He's looking for a version of those places that will "appeal to a lot of people," he said.

All power to Dzubnar. But I tend to shudder when I hear the word "franchise."

To my surprise, there's very little not to like about this place. A lot of people seem to agree. The bar has done a brisk happy-hour business since opening Sept. 10, and the debut of live music this past weekend drew a crowd that was ready to dance.

Here are six things that surprised me about the Crooked Pint.

1. The new look.

I liked the 501 Club, but its concrete floors and minimalist decor gave it a cold air. The Crooked Pint is the complete opposite. Reclaimed oak floors and a dropped tin ceiling have warmed up the place. A new central bar gives drinkers something to crowd around, and the leather chairs and brass fixtures create a throwback vibe.

2. They got the 40-plus crowd to dance.

Hookers & Blow brought its high-energy soul revue to the new stage last Saturday, compelling a crowd of 40- and 50-somethings to take over the dance floor. Cocchiarella said he has ambitious plans to attract touring acts, but in the meantime his booker has filled the calendar with old standby cover bands such as Mick Sterling (10 p.m. Saturday) and Boogie Wonderland (10 p.m. Oct. 14).

Chef Keven Kvalsten is in charge at the Green Mill's other spinoff, the well-reviewed Twisted Fork Grille in St. Paul. He designed Crooked's menu, too, outfitting it with your usual comfort food options, plus some fun stuff. I dug the chorizo corn dogs and tempura mushrooms. The burgers are a bit adventurous, too, including a Californian topped with arugula and avocado. A barbecue burger is covered with pulled pork and coleslaw.

4. They are serious about film.

The bar's signage on Washington Avenue looks like a movie theater marquee for a reason. Inside, the many flatscreen TVs come in handy on game days. But Cocchiarella, a film buff, is using them for something else, too. He claims the dining room's 15-foot-wide screen is the biggest in downtown (I think he's right). So he's playing classic films on Sunday nights ("The Omen" this week). And he hopes to utilize his high-end system to debut first-run, locally made movies.

5. The beer selection needs more 'oomph.'

Don't get me wrong, the draft list is good, just not extraordinary. And if you're gonna call your place the Crooked Pint Ale House, your house should feature some extremely fine ales. They're off to a good start, though with Surly, Deschutes, Odell and other craft brews on the 20 taps.

CEO Dzubnar said he doesn't want to put the cart before the horse, but if business is good here he's ready to franchise more pubs. Ever wondered what it would cost to be a part of a budding chain? You'll need $45,000 for the one-time franchise fee, and expect to give up 4 percent of monthly sales for royalties. Dzubnar said franchisees will need to invest between $500,000 and $1 million on the build-out, depending on the space. I like the place, but I'm just going to stick with paying the happy-hour beer prices and call it a day.