Chicago: Beyond the Magnificent Mile

From Greektown to Chinatown, from the Polish Triangle to Pakistani restaurants on Devon Avenue, Chicago is known for its wealth of diverse ethnic neighborhoods.

Patricia Sullivan, manager of the Chicago Neighborhood Tours program, said visitors need to leave the tourist-heavy Loop and Michigan Avenue areas to really see the different ethnic and cultural corners of the city.

"They're distinct and they're beautiful," Sullivan said. "The architecture is different, as are the restaurants and the stores. It's really a melting pot."

By no means an exhaustive list, here are highlights of some of Chicago's ethnic neighborhoods:

Visitors to this neighborhood on Chicago's near South Side will be greeted by the large red and green Chinatown Gate on Wentworth Avenue and Cermak Road. Here are blocks of stores to explore that sell Chinese slippers and robes, trinkets and bamboo plants alongside Chinese tea shops and herbalists. Restaurants range from nicer sit-down eateries to small takeout establishments.

The neighborhood is home to the annual Chinese Lunar New Year parade with marching bands and floats. The community also hosts a summer concert series that includes traditional Chinese music in Chinatown Square along with a summer fair each July. The Chinese-American Museum of Chicago (238 W. 23rd St.) has been closed since a fire in September 2008. For more information: www.chicagochinatown.org.

It's clear you've reached Greektown when you see the signs on the local Walgreens drugstore -- they are written in Greek. Greektown stretches along Halsted Street from Van Buren Street north to Washington Street in the city's West Loop neighborhood. Fancier restaurants with names like Pegasus, Parthenon and Santorini serve saganaki (fried cheese) and spanakopita (spinach pie). They sit alongside bakeries, candle shops and corner fast-food eateries where you can order takeout gyros.

Chicago's Italian community is centered along Taylor Street on the city's near West Side, bordered by the University of Illinois-Chicago campus. Dennis O'Neill, director of the neighborhood's University Village Association, says visitors who walk west on Taylor Street from Halsted Street to Ashland Avenue will discover the area's rich dining history.

The street is lined with fancy Italian restaurants that serve pasta and steaks as well as takeout pizza and sandwich eateries. Among them are the red awnings of Al's Italian Beef (1079 W. Taylor St.), where you can get 8-inch-long beef sandwiches with peppers and cheese.

In the summer, lines form outside Mario's Italian Lemonade (1068 W Taylor St.) for frosty to-go Italian ices.

The neighborhood also is home to the National Italian American Sports Hall of Fame (1431 W. Taylor St.), www.niashf.org, where you can see boxer Rocky Marciano's 1952 championship belt and one of Mario Andretti's race cars. Across the street, O'Neill says visitors shouldn't miss Joe DiMaggio Plaza's fountain and statue of the baseball great.

Those looking to capture Mexican culture can tour both the Pilsen and Little Village neighborhoods on Chicago's near south and west sides. In Pilsen, start on Halsted and 18th streets and walk west to Ashland Avenue. Carlos Tortolero, president and founder of the neighborhood's National Museum of Mexican Art (1852 W. 19th St.), says visitors will find affordable taquerías, art galleries, churches and shops selling religious goods. For restaurants, try La Cebollita (1807 S. Ashland Av.) for sopes (dough patties with various toppings) or Taquería El Milagro (1923 S. Blue Island Av.).

The neighborhood hosts an annual Mexican Independence Day festival and parade. For more information: www.lavillitachamber.org and www.nationalmuseumofmexicanart.org.

There are several Polish areas in Chicago and the suburbs, but the main neighborhoods are along Milwaukee Avenue. Start at the historic Polish Triangle -- the intersection of Milwaukee Avenue, Division Street and Damen Avenue. At the beginning of the 20th century, this neighborhood was crowded with Polish immigrants and businesses, says Jan Lorys, director of the Polish Museum of America. The museum (984 N. Milwaukee Av.) is a few blocks southeast on Milwaukee Avenue, where visitors can see Polish folk costumes and crafts among other exhibits.

A good place to get a meal nearby? Podhalanka (1549 W. Division St.) is a small kitchen serving homestyle Polish food. Or travel northwest on Milwaukee Avenue to Belmont Avenue. Here, Lorys says, you'll find a neighborhood lined with Polish groceries, bakeries, bookstores and shops. A popular restaurant in this area is the Red Apple Buffet (3121 N. Milwaukee Av.), where you can eat a Polish dinner for around $10. For more information: www.polishmuseumofamerica.org.

Immigrants started opening businesses along Devon Avenue on Chicago's North Side in the early 1970s and the area now is a bustling district, says Lakshmi Menon of the Indo-American Heritage Museum (6328 N. California Av.). Start at California Avenue and walk east along Devon Avenue and the neighborhood stretches for more than 10 city blocks. Menon suggests a good first stop would be at a grocery where ethnic foods and special cooking utensils line the shelves. Popular grocery stores include Patel Brothers (2610 W. Devon Av.) or Kamdar Plaza (2646 W. Devon Av.). Sit-down, buffet and take-out restaurants serve tandoori dishes and naan breads while sweet shops have ethnic desserts. Try Hema's Kitchen (2439 W. Devon Av.) or the vegetarian Udupi Palace (2543 W. Devon Av.), and for Pakistani cuisine, try Sabri Nehari, (2502 W. Devon Av.), which is known, and named, for a stringy meat delicacy.

Merchants along the street stock colorful sari dresses, embroidered outfits and an array of jewelry. The Indo-American museum offers guided tours by appointment at www.iahmuseum.org.