Butternut squash is the key ingredient of the soup you’ve been craving

The humble butternut squash is my go-to for a true autumn soup.

The thin-skinned Cucurbita is plush, earthy and just a tad sweet. Delicious cubed and roasted or sautéed, when baked and puréed it becomes an especially versatile base for soup. Season it with curry spices, or the heat of Mexican chiles. Try whisking in miso, ginger and soy, or fragrant rosemary, parsley and thyme. Stick to Yankee-style cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and maple syrup with a shot of cider vinegar to keep things in line. Please, though, taste as you go and do not over season so the luscious nutty notes of the squash shine through.

Roasting the squash first deepens its flavor by caramelizing the natural sugars while the flesh melts into a rich mash. Once it’s out of the oven, cook the squash with aromatics like shallot and garlic and enough stock to purée it into a thick, creamy soup without the addition of cream. Its golden hues and cozy texture are like that favorite sweater. This is the kind no-recipe dish to whip up on the fly, just right for a quick dinner when the winds howl and the temperatures drop.

In the market, look for butternut squash with a long fat neck for more of the flesh; the seeds hide in the bulb. It should be heavy for its size, free of nicks and gashes. Store it in a cool dry place until ready to use. You can make this soup ahead; in fact, you should to give the flavors time to marry.

The soup will keep in the fridge for at least three days and freezes nicely, too. Serve with a cheese toasty or a warm crusty baguette and tart green salad, for dinner in a bowl.

Serves 4 to 6.

Customize this basic squash soup with different flavors depending on your mood. These are just suggestions, feel free to add your own. From Beth Dooley.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Brush the cut halves of the squash with some of the oil and place cut-side down on the parchment. Roast the squash until very tender and wrinkled, about 50 minutes to 1 hour. Remove and allow to cool.

In a large heavy soup pot set over medium heat, add the oil or butter and sauté the onion and shallot until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Scoop the squash out of the peel and add to the pot; no worries if some of the peel ends up in the soup. Stir in the stock and purée using an immersion blender. (Alternatively, work in batches and purée in a stand blender and return soup to the pot.)

Season the soup with one of these flavor profiles:

Curried Squash Soup: Stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons curry powder, 1 tablespoon honey and 1 tablespoon lemon, to taste.

Classic New England-Style Squash Soup: Substitute ½ cup apple cider for ½ cup stock, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons pumpkin pie spices, 1 tablespoon maple syrup and ½ teaspoon apple cider vinegar, to taste.

Reduce the heat and simmer the soup, stirring occasionally, for about 8 to 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Garnish with small dabs of whole milk Greek style yogurt or sour cream, toasted pumpkin seeds and chopped parsley