Bright spot for the sun-starved

For the first time in three days of water-parking, I rummaged around my beach bag for sunglasses. Nearby, real bananas -- not plastic -- hung from real trees. I was at the Wild WaterDome, where the sun shines through the transparent roof. And where the most ocean-like wave pool I've ever encountered churns. Who needs Hawaii?

The Dome is one of three indoor water parks at Wilderness, which counts a whopping 250,000 square feet of liquid fun. It also has Klondike Kavern, where teens shriek and laugh their way down the Hurricane raft ride, and Wild West, a family-friendly spot with a five-person raft ride and a four-story play structure. All those choices mean that everyone -- young, old, brave, timid -- can find their place in the sun, real or fake.

Best features: The wave pool in the Wild WaterDome is huge (the largest in the country, according to the Wilderness website). I could have swayed on the swells all day. Getting a tan -- and vitamin D -- was a bonus.

Advisory: In Klondike Kavern, Goldmine Mountain is being replaced by the more squat Bonanza Bluff, which will offer better sight lines for watchful parents. Work is scheduled to be completed in mid-December. If you want to experience all three water parks, be prepared to walk; they are not connected.

Beyond the water: There's a big climbing structure for kids with a nice lounge area for parents near the only entrance (in other words, kick back and relax). The arcade is mind-blowingly huge.

Practical matters: In Wisconsin Dells, Wis. Rates start at $99 a night for a standard room and include park passes. You can also opt for condos or cabins. Reservations and more info: 1-800-867-9453; www. wildernessresort.com.