In 2012, Forbes Magazine named Stillwater one of the "ten prettiest small towns in America." Nestled below the bluff along the scenic St. Croix River, one of America's protected Wild and Scenic Waterways, the red brick town stands as proof of that commendation. Its historic buildings and iconic Lift Bridge, shops and antique stores that line Main Street, parks, bars and restaurants and stunning river views draw visitors year-round. The burnished and brilliant leaves of autumn make views across the St. Croix to Wisconsin particularly enchanting.
One of Minnesota's oldest towns, Stillwater is often called the birthplace of Minnesota. After treaties with the local Ojibwe and Dakota tribes were signed in 1837, settlers moved into the valley to harvest then-abundant lumber and build sawmills on the river. In 1848, Stillwater hosted a territorial convention that began the process of establishing Minnesota as a state (the spot, at Myrtle and Main Streets, is marked by a bronze commemorative plaque).
While Minneapolis got the University of Minnesota and St. Paul became the capital, Stillwater was chosen as the site of the territory's first prison. The Minnesota Territorial Prison opened in 1853. The Warden's House, now a museum, is open for tours (602 N. Main; 651-439-5956; wchsmn.org/museums/wardens_house).
Another early landmark is the striking Italianate-style 1867 Washington County Courthouse (101 W. Pine St.; 651-275-7075; www.co.washington.mn.us). On the National Register of Historic Places, it is the state's oldest standing courthouse. Stillwater's original 1901 Renaissance Revival library was gratis from Andrew Carnegie. The town's most iconic symbol is the 1931 Lift Bridge leading to Wisconsin. It will be repurposed as a pedestrian and cycling path when the downriver St. Croix Crossing freeway-scale bridge is completed in 2016.
What to do
The choices are endless. Walking historic Main Street is in itself enough. For more exercise, climb one of Stillwater's five historic stairways for breathtaking river views, including the one at bluff-top Pioneer Park. Or saunter along the St. Croix on Lowell Park Riverwalk. Paddleboat rides with the St. Croix Boat and Packet Co. (525 S. Main; 651-430-1234; stillwaterriverboats.com) are warm-weather crowd-pleasers or, for a more intimate river experience, take a romantic ride in an authentic Venetian gondola (651-439-1783; www.gondolaromantica.com). The seasonal Stillwater Trolley is a stress-free way to navigate the crowds, through October. (651-430-0352; stillwatertrolley.com).
WHere to stay
On the steep hillsides overlooking downtown Stillwater, wealthy 19th-century lumber barons built dozens of beautiful Victorian-style homes, seven of which are now fashionable B&B inns. All come highly recommended but of note are the Ann Bean Mansion (319 W. Pine St.; 651-430-0355; annbeanmansion.com), Elephant Walk (801 W. Pine St.; 651-430-0528; elephantwalkbb.com) and the William Sauntry Mansion (626 N. 4th St.; 651-430-2653; www.sauntrymansion.com). The more expansive Lowell Inn (102 N. 2nd St.; 651-439-1100; lowellin.com) and Water Street Inn (101 Water St.; 651-439-6000; waterstreetinn.us) offer historic accommodations with fireplaces and restaurants.
Where to dine
Recently opened is the airy Tin Bins (413 E. Nelson; 651-342-0799) tucked away in the unique 1898 Commander grain elevator. Part coffee shop, part wine bar, it's a peaceful spot with light fare, a deck and river views.
For coffee, the independent Daily Grind Espresso Café (317 S. Main; 651-430-3207) has been in business since 1992. Up the hill, the go-to spot for sandwiches and beer is Meisters Bar & Grill (901 S. 4th St.; 651-433-5230; meistersbar.com). For nightlife, try the historic Freight House (305 Water St.; 651-439-5718; fhstillwater.com).