Aged Gouda makes a cozy pasta for these damp, raw November evenings. The dish emerges from the oven steaming and fragrant, urging me to plunge a spoon into the bubbling gooey mass.
Though simple, its allure is roasted cherry tomatoes. Use whatever tomatoes you have on hand, but the tiny red and gold cherries in the market this time of year have the most spunk.
For pasta, I like orecchiette, or “little ears” in Italian; the concave shape is firm and springy and clings to the sauce. Cream cheese, whisked with milk, brings the dish together without having to make a heavier white sauce of flour and milk. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes and grated nutmeg to liven things up.
The aged Gouda, nutty and sharp, gives the dish its depth and finish. Tomatoes, roasted into a sticky, jammy-sweet-tart mess, add pops of color and tart-sweet taste. They can be prepared ahead then held in a covered jar in the refrigerator for several days. Double or triple the amount for a chunky paste to keep on hand and ready to twist into spaghetti, dollop on fried eggs, smear on focaccia, fold into an omelet or whisk into mayonnaise.
This simple recipe is what home cooks in Italy might call “cucina casalinga,” or home cooking. It’s simplicity at its best, with just a few simple ingredients. Rich and satisfying, it’s just the thing as night closes in and hungers rage.
For a cozy dinner, serve this with a crisp green salad and crusty bread.
Pasta With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
Serves 4.
This serves two very hungry people, four if you’re including a crunchy green salad or steamed vegetables and crusty bread. But feel free to vary the amount; it will keep several days in the refrigerator and is easy to reheat. From Beth Dooley.
