Xarmant Txakoli Artomaña Txakolina 2018

What’s in a name? Well, “Xarmant” means charming in Basque country, from which the Xarmant Txakoli Artomaña Txakolina 2018 ($17) emanates, and there’s no better word to describe this light and lively white. It might be especially alluring for a generation that grew up with sour candy, but the array of fruit flavors and the sprightly effervescence — it’s bottled with residual carbon — should appeal to any and all. This Spanish white is a clean, lean, stainless-steel delight. The region is pronounced “chock-o-LEAN-a,” but the primary grape is the more phonetic hondarrabi zuri. The zest makes it a great play with shrimp and scallop dishes, while the sour edge means fermented foods are a natural.

Available at Surdyk’s, South Lyndale, Henry & Son, France 44, Solo Vino and Thomas.

Bill Ward