Domaine Labbe Vin de Savoie Abymes

The experience: We have a seriously long red-wine season here in Tundraland, but sometimes in the dead o' winter, only a brisk, refreshing white will do. This zesty, citrus-y gem, made from the jacquère grape, has a wet-slate texture but plenty of body and oomph, even on the mouthwatering finish.

The setting: Seafood of almost any sort, soft cheeses (fondue!) and lighter poultry dishes (including fried chicken) play well with this wine. Or just sip it while imagining yourself on the patio.

The back story: Savoy, situated in the western Alps, is closer to Lake Geneva than to any other French wine region.

The tab: $12, available at Stinson, Byerly's, Little Wine Shoppe, Lowry Hill, Northfield and Richfield munis, Café Barbette, Black Dog and others.

Bill Ward