Domaine de Pouy Côtes de Gascogne 2017

Domaine de Pouy Côtes de Gascogne has a new label, but what’s inside the bottle is as delicious and old-school as ever. The latest ($11) offers up a lean, clean nose with surpassing purity, then packs lip-smacking fruit-cocktail flavors from smooth start to refreshing finish. That whole fruit/acid/mineral thing is completely nailed in this white blend (60 percent ugni blanc, 40 percent colombard) from southwest France. I’ve had this gem with Thai and Vietnamese dishes, shrimp cocktail, salty appetizers and salads, and it has rocked on every occasion. It’s also a swell al fresco sipper, and dangerously quaffable at 10.5 percent alcohol.

Available at Hum’s, Marketplace, Haskell’s, Atomic, France 44, Solo Vino, Jerry’s (Woodbury) and others.

BILL WARD