So much pinot gris/grigio is insipid, flabby or both. But not the 2012 J Pinot Gris ($17), which is by turns lean and clean or lush and lively. It has Meyer lemon notes and mouthwatering acidity to go with that juicy fruit. Try it with ceviche and other seafood salads, mildly spiced Mexican dishes or al fresco during the waning patio season. Available at Surdyk's, Haskell's, France 44, Bacchus, Clocktower, Cub (Eagan), Wayzata and Richfield munis and others.