Apply the spiced, fermented barbecue sauce called hoisin to meats, fish and vegetables on the grill and you're almost assured that it will function as a mahogany glaze that stays put and tastes salty-sweet — but less so than, say, teriyaki. The condiment deserves its supermarket ubiquity.

I'm not sure whether my favorite Peking duck restaurants make their own hoisin sauces, but I tend to prefer what's in those little takeout cups over store-bought brands. How about you? The amount that gets ferried home is about all you'll need.

In this six-ingredient preparation, all but the color of hoisin practically goes undercover. The predominant flavor of the quick sauce is bright and punchy, thanks to Sriracha and the zest and juice of a lime. It cuts against the tender fattiness of the fish in a most winning way.

You can use individual fillets, always handy from the freezer. If you are looking for different ways to serve salmon, though, try roasting a center-cut portion big enough to feed four, as we've done here. What you will need to do, then, is to first run your fingers gently over the flesh side to feel for the flexible pin bones; use tweezers or your nails to extract them.

Present the roasted fish on a platter, topped with pan juices and surrounded by something refreshing, such as dressed cucumber. Then invite folks to dig in and transfer portions to their own plates.

Leftovers can upgrade a next-day grain bowl.