Wine

No category of under-$20 wine has shown more gains in recent years than Italian whites. And one of the yummiest that I've tried lately is the 2011 Bibi Graetz Casamatta Toscana Bianco ($15). Mostly vermentino with a bit of moscato, this mouth-watering wine is fresh and juicy but firm on the finish, with an array of fruit flavors (it's loads of fun trying to pick them out). The crisp cleanness of this wine makes it ideal for appetizers or most any seafood. Available at North Loop, Thomas, South Lyndale and France 44.

BILL WARD