A Proper Introduction

Originally published in TC Dog in 2006.

After learning the joys that come from living with a cat, people often decide to adopt an additional cat. This frequently works out very well for all the cats and people involved, provided the introduction of the new cat is undertaken with considerable patience and understanding.

Should I get a second cat?

First consider your reason for wanting an additional cat. If you enjoy the company of your resident cat and feel that your finances and living arrangements are sufficient for adopting an additional one, go for it. It is important to consider that this means double the food and vet bills, as well as double the scooping. The minimum amount of space needed for two cats to live comfortably would be a two-bedroom (or very large one-bedroom) apartment. Typically, there should be enough space for each cat to have a "room of its own." You should also be aware that behavioral issues including inappropriate elimination and aggression may be more common in multi-cat households.

If you are thinking of getting a cat primarily as a companion for your resident cat, you may want to reconsider. Though your cat may appear lonely during the day, most feline species do not naturally live in social groups, so this may not be the case. A nice window seat and a few new toys may go a long way in curing your cat's apparent boredom. This is not to say, however, that cats don't enjoy each other's company. Cats often learn to coexist peacefully and may become close friends.

Choosing the New Cat

• It is extremely important that your new cat be healthy. Because some fatal diseases may show no symptoms, it is essential that the cat be tested for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) before having contact with your resident cat.

• Though opinions in gender selection may differ, when all involved cats are appropriately spayed or neutered by six months, the sex of the cats need not be your main concern.

• Many cats will be most willing to accept a new cat with a similar personality. If your cat is playful and assertive, a similar cat would do quite well. If your cat is shy and mellow, he would do best with another laid-back cat.

• Most cats will eventually accept another cat of any age, provided care has been taken to ensure a good personality match. Extra time and patience may be needed if the cats have limited experience living with other cats. A kitten may be more readily accepted by cats that are territorial or ones who easily feel threatened.

Tips for a Successful Introduction

The following guidelines should help promote a successful introduction. Every situation is different, however, and the tips may be followed loosely depending upon your cats' personalities.

• Though it seems strange, it's very important to focus your affections on your resident cat throughout the introduction process. This assures him that he is still loved and is not being replaced. It is also best to avoid changes to his routine throughout the introduction period.

• Begin by putting the newcomer in a cat-proofed room with food and water bowls, NEW litter box, bedding, hiding spot, and toys. This will allow the new cat to become familiar with his surroundings without feeling overwhelmed and for the cats to become accustomed to each other's smells without the threat of face-to-face interaction. Some sniffing and hissing at the door is normal, but a lot of aggression may signal rough seas ahead.

• After two or three days, put the resident cat in a secure room, and allow the new cat to gradually explore the rest of the home. It is important for the new cat to leave his scent and become familiar with this environment before he is released in the presence of the resident cat.

• Additional steps to make the cats feel positive about one another include: 1) feeding the cats their meals or treats on opposite sides of the door, 2) placing fabric that smells like the other cat under the food bowls, 3) alternately rubbing the cats with the same towel (so they smell alike), and 4) swapping their bedding.

• After about five days, if the cats seem comfortable, they may be ready for limited interaction under supervision. Prop the door open a crack, put up a baby gate (provided it is tall enough), or place one cat in a crate. This will allow the cats to touch noses and paw at each other (keep claws trimmed), without permitting full-body contact. Set up several short meetings until hissing, posturing, and swatting have declined. Give treats if the cats are well behaved.

• After seven to ten days, or when the cats seem relatively calm in each other's presence, casually open the door and let the new cat into the rest of the house. Do not indicate to the resident cat that this is a big deal. Do NOT leave the cats unsupervised, but try not to intervene unless it appears that one of the cats is going to be harmed. The cats may again hiss and swat or may stalk and chase one another. There may be a considerable amount of rough-and-tumble behavior...if neither cat is screaming nor cowering, however, this is likely wrestling rather than aggressive fighting. If it seems to be getting out of hand or if one cat is continuously on the defensive, return them to their separate quarters.

• If a real fight should erupt, toss a pillow or glass of water their way. Set up several meetings per day and work up to allowing the cats to be together whenever you are home. After you are confident they will not harm one another, you can leave them together all day. Be sure to maintain at least one litter box per cat and provide separate food dishes.

What if things don't improve?

If things don't progress as you expected, start over from the beginning. Behaviors that may indicate serious problems include continued aggression, serious injury, refusal to eat, and repeated inappropriate elimination. If you've had the new cat for several months and things just don't work out, you may need to separate the cats permanently or find a new home for the new cat.