Wine
It can be a bit disconcerting to see a 2006 wine on the shelves in 2013, but the '06 Vitalonga Elcione ($17) is fresh, firm and delightful. A 50-50 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon, this Umbrian red offers up rich, spicy fruit and beautifully integrated tannins and minerality. It's smooth on the palate with some dusty dryness on the finish. Roasted meats, sausages and root vegetables would be swell accompaniments. Available at Stinson, North Loop, South Lyndale and Westside (Waite Park).
BILL WARD
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