If you go: Winona

What to know

Population: 26,656

Getting there: Follow Hwy. 61 southeast from Hwy. 494 through Hastings and down the corridor of the Mississippi River Valley. This mostly two-lane route takes about 2 1/2 hours and, south of Red Wing, is one of the most picturesque drives in the country. Otherwise, cross over to Prescott at Hastings and come down Wisconsin Hwy. 35.

Facts: Winona Ryder (real name: Winona Laura Horowitz) was born in Winona, Minn., on Oct 29, 1971. Yeah, she's named after the town. The only Revolutionary soldier buried in Minnesota is buried in Winona at Woodlawn Cemetery. His name is Stephen Taylor.

More information: Call the Winona Convention & Visitors Bureau for more information at 1-800-657-4972 or 1-507-452-2272. Or visit the website at http://visitwinona.com or e-mail at altwncvb@luminet.net.

The overview

Garvin Heights Park: In order to look down on it all from above, go to Garvin Heights Park by heading across Hwy. 61 on Huff St., taking a left on Lake Blvd., and an immediate right. Follow the sign near the top of the hill to the lookout.

Where to stay

Hotels: Unlike the boomtown days when the Winona Hotel was one of the finest around, there are no premier lodgings in Winona. Rather, there are legions of motels, both chains and independent, along Hwy 61. Call the Winona Convention & Visitors Bureau for more information at 1-507-452-2272.

Bed & Breakfasts: There are two B&Bs in Winona, surprisingly few for a town its size. Windom Park Bed & Breakfast is in an elegant, turn-of-the-century home across from Windom Park. Breakfast is served in guests' rooms and a billiard room is available. Private Baths. Call 1-507-457-9515 for more information.

The Carriage House Bed & Breakfast is in the three-story, 1870 carriage house of a Winona lumber baron. Complimentary bicycles for guests and free shuttle service for those arriving by boat or Amtrak. Call 1-507-452-8256.

Country Cabins at the Winona Farm offers two cabins in a secluded woods just outside Winona, with room for 12 guests in one and six in the other. Hiking/cross country skiing trails and trout steams nearby. Call 1-507-454-3126.

Where to eat

Breakfast: Aside from the usual restaurant chains along Hwy. 61, there are few places to breakfast in Winona. Prime Steak & Cake is the best bet, serving traditional fare (pancakes, eggs, sausage, etc.) in a family environment.

Lunch: At midday the news is better. Beno's Cheese & Deli, a small shop near Levee Park, makes your sandwich while you wait. Good food and service. Chinese food also enjoys a forceful presence, with a total of four restaurants.

In keeping with the times, Winona has two excellent coffee shops. The Natural Habitat serves espresso, gourmet coffees, deli sandwiches, soups, salads, pastries and some organic fare. The Acoustic Cafe also serves espresso, gourmet coffee, hoagies, and has Leinenkugel's on tap. It features local artists.

Dinner: In the evening, Winona's famous Hot Fish Shop is not to be missed. Also worthwhile are the Hillside Fish House across the river in an old stagecoach stop; Jefferson's Pub & Grill in an old Winona railroad depot; and the Pickwick Inn Restaurant, looking out at the historic Pickwick Mill.

What to do

History: Winona is steeped in history, and it would be a mistake to visit without learning something of its past. A good starting point is the Winona County Historical Museum, where cassettes telling about the different points of interest can be rented for $4. Call 1-507-454-2723. The other museum open year-round is the J.R. Watkins Heritage Museum.

Brochures for self-guided, walking architectural tours and tours of the stained glass in Winona's historic buildings are available at the Winona Visitors Center on Huff St. between East and West Lake Winona near Hwy. 61, or at the Winona County Historical Society . On Dec. 7, the historical society will offer Victorian Home Tours. Call 1-507-454-2723 for information.

Winter Recreation: There are seven cross-country skiing trails near town with groomed trails for skiers, three of which are state parks. St. Mary's University also has an extensive trail system and Holtzinger Lodge is worth a stop. Skis and snowshoes are available for rent at Adventure Cycle & Ski downtown. There are plenty of snowmobile trails in the area, too. For information, call Performance Sports at 1-507-452-3213.