I'm sitting with my wife on the fringe of Rosa Parks Circle as a multiracial band blasts bluesy tunes for a small but very receptive crowd -- it's like a Dave Matthews concert in miniature -- and it occurs to me that this western Michigan town represents the ideal urban getaway.

Grand Rapids, in fact, is the state's second-largest city. It's also western Michigan's cultural epicenter, boasting a highly regarded symphony, several local theater ensembles and a ballet company.

It's a friendly town, too. People smiled at me and said, "Go, Cubs" the morning I wore my Cubs T-shirt.

The Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park is the single biggest reason to put Grand Rapids on your must-visit list. Come for the park, stay in one of downtown's grand hotels and rest assured that there are enough "other" things to fill up a loooong weekend. Or more.

FREDERIK MEIJER GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK

When my wife and I unpacked our bags in our unbelievably gorgeous hotel room (more on that later), the first thing we did was check the weather report and figure out the best day to explore the Frederik Meijer (as in the mega-grocery chain) Gardens & Sculpture Park, because apart from the enormous greenhouse, everything to do there is outdoors.

As I paid for our tickets ($12 adults, $9 students and seniors, less for kids), I asked the woman at the desk, "So, what should I see here?"

"Well," she said, "we have a lovely cafeteria."

Cafeteria? Are you kidding?

She wasn't kidding. The cafeteria is clean and sunny and hopelessly neutral -- except for the long Dale Chihuly art-glass sculpture snaking its way along the ceiling. This must be the only cafeteria that allows you to feast on a pre-wrapped tuna sandwich while sitting beneath a priceless work of art. So yes, check out the cafeteria. Just don't spend all day there.

Instead, meander through the greenhouse, marveling at the carnivorous-plant room and playing birdwatcher in the tropical conservatory, which also is home to many small, colorful birds. Outside are acres of beautifully landscaped gardens and arresting contemporary sculptures, including works by Henry Moore and Keith Haring. You can find them all by meandering along well-marked paths. Or, for $3, try a tram tour that takes in most of the sculptures and includes narrated explanations of same.

The park is great for kids; not only is there plenty of room to run around, but there's an enormous children's garden, with 10 themed garden areas, including a waist-high (for kids) water garden that depicts the Great Lakes.

And there's an amphitheater that hosts outdoor summer concerts, requiring separate admission.

Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, 1000 E. Beltline Ave. NE., 1-616-957-1580, meijergardens.org

GERALD R. FORD PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY & MUSEUM

The Gerald Ford Museum, as the downtown maps abbreviate the name, is just across the Grand River, a block west of downtown. President Ford's grave is on the grounds.

Ford's political life was defined by scandals not of his making, from bribery charges that forced Vice President Spiro Agnew to resign (Ford was appointed to succeed Agnew) to the Watergate scandal that brought about the resignation of President Richard Nixon, whom Ford succeeded. The museum displays dwell on these events at some length, not surprisingly, as well as the nation's culture at that time. The "Economy in Crisis" display details the mess of rising unemployment and high inflation that Ford inherited.

There also is a re-creation of the Oval Office as it appeared under Ford, an area dedicated to wife Betty Ford (particularly her fight for the Equal Rights Amendment) and occasional traveling exhibits. Considering that Ford's presidency lasted just 2 1/2 years, there is a lot to see here; you get your $7 worth.

Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library & Museum, 303 Pearl St. NW., 1-616-254-0400, fordlibrarymuseum.gov.

THE B.O.B.

The name stands for Big Old Building, a former warehouse converted into a multilevel venue packed with entertainment options. There are four restaurants, including a steakhouse, seafood restaurant, small-plates Asian resto-lounge and a pizza-and-pub-food joint called Bobarino's. There are two nightclubs, the high-energy Crush and the very intimate Eve. Also, a microbrewery and a comedy club. Live music is featured regularly, and there are various happy-hour deals and other promotions. It's very much the premier destination in these parts.

I didn't eat at the B.O.B., but we did have a drink late one night on Bobarino's rooftop lounge. The weather was nice, and the crowd, mostly young but not entirely so, was mellow.

And I thought, not for the first time that weekend: I could get used to this.