What must this tree have seen in its 200 or so years?
A broad pillar of scaly bark with an umbrella of leafy branches, the stone pine towering beside Bodysgallen Hall in Llandudno, Wales, would have been here through times of brilliant parties, genteel country weekends and grand living. Today, it watches weekenders, the well-heeled and romantics take a break from urban life.
Considered Wales' finest country house hotel, the much-awarded Bodysgallen Hall (say bodice-GATH-un) is a bastion of tranquility near the Victorian resort town of Llandudno. In its earliest recorded history, it was, simply, a bastion: a watchtower built in the 13th century to protect Conwy Castle 2 miles to the southwest.
That five-story tower stands today at the heart of Bodysgallen Hall, newer buildings from the 17th century onward cupping it like hands around a candle. As did the watchmen of old, guests can climb the tower's steps and look out on luxuriant Welsh countryside, mountains of Snowdonia and the castle in the distance.
"Guests come here for the peace and quiet more than anything," says receptionist Karen Ross.
They find it in the peaceful landscapes and deep comfort of the accommodations.
Of the 15 rooms in the main hall (four of them suites) and 16 cottages offering greater privacy, I draw Gingerbread Cottage, a three-level charmer with its own small, walled garden. The lowest level, which opens onto that little green haven, is set with thick-cushioned easy chairs, television and small desk. Mid-level contains a roomy bathroom with soaking tub and a small kitchen area with coffee and tea fixings. The roomy loft with bed, desk and tables overlooks the cottage's garden. No noise from other cottages invades the cozy space.
Paths wind through Bodysgallen's 200 acres of woodland and meadows, and a map available at registration lays out three easy walks.
Roses pruned to topiary trees decorate one sunken garden. A rockery with a waterfall beckons in another, and decorative small buildings set like gems in a necklace transport you to past times. But it's the mazelike, 17th-century parterre that combines art with botany. Carefully trimmed box hedges enclose scented herbs, all linked by narrow walkways creating a geometric pattern.
Reached via the garden is the original farm, its stone building converted to a spa.
The hotel's restaurant is noted for its afternoon tea, though breakfast, lunch and dinner also are available. Dishes emphasize local produce and may include cod fillet, Welsh black beef or pork raised locally.
Bodysgallen Hall is away from the world but not isolated. Short drives reach five castles, including Caernarfon, considered one of Europe's most beautiful. The peaks and glacial valleys of Snowdonia National Park are to the south. Serene villages are a day-tripper's delight. And lovely Anglesey Island offers an opportunity to visit the town behind the trivia question: Britain's longest place name? Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch (aka Llanfairpwllgwyngyll).
In heated western Minn. GOP congressional primary, outsiders challenging incumbent
Minnesota Sports Hall of Fame: A class-by-class list of all members
This retired journalist changed professional wrestling from Mankato
