MARSHALL, Mich. – One of the first things that caught my eye as we drove along Michigan Avenue was the Rexall Drugs sign, resplendent in blue, orange and white. I couldn’t remember having seen one for about, oh, 40 years.
The next was the nature of the buildings lining the street, nearly all appearing to date from the 19th century.
Finally, when we parked and I went to put money in the meter, I knew I wasn’t in Chicago anymore.
The meter had two slots, one labeled “1 or 5” and the other “10.” But when I tried to insert coins, the meter wouldn’t accept them. One of our guides later explained that they were kept for display only.
I shouldn’t have been surprised. The main reason we came to Marshall was to spend a day steeping ourselves in history. The parking meters — like the drugstore sign and the buildings lining the main drag — were Exhibit A in a whole town devoted to one overriding theme: celebration of its past.
Our first official stop of the day was the United States Postal Service Museum, housed in the basement of the town’s post office. Our guide was the genial Michael Schragg, museum founder and curator and former town postmaster (his daughter is the current one). He’s also the person for whom the post office building is named. The private museum is open by appointment only, with a handful of people conducting the tours.
As soon as we met Schragg, it became apparent that the Postal Service has been a lifelong love of Schragg’s. He has been collecting postal artifacts from across the country for decades. When he talks about the Postal Service, he uses the word “we.”
Leading us slowly through the museum’s basement rooms, he effortlessly unspooled the Postal Service’s story, and with it, the story of a country evolving from its largely rural roots through the major convulsions of war, industrialization and societal changes.
Schragg, 65, retired from the Postal Service in 2002 after a 32-year career, 23 of those as postmaster. When asked about the current challenges faced by the service, he doesn’t hesitate.
“If Congress would let us run it like a business, we could make it,” he said. But he doesn’t see that happening.
After lunch, we headed to the American Museum of Magic. Why would there be a museum devoted to magic in this small town? The answer, museum intern Ben Page told us, lies partly with Harry Blackstone Sr., one of the brightest stars of magic’s golden age (the 1870s through the 1940s). Blackstone bought property in the nearby town of Colon for a summer home, and his devotees often visited him there. One man came to the area and established a magic shop in Colon, which eventually became a center for the magic business. This year was the 76th edition of the town’s magic convention, known as the Magic Get Together.
Enter Robert Lund, a Michigan journalist and author with a lifelong love of the magic industry. Born in 1925, he amassed a huge collection of playbills, props, ephemera and other magic-related items. He and his wife opened the museum in 1978 to house his collection, which is believed to contain roughly three-quarters of a million items, Page said. Lund died in 1995, his wife in 2006.
Another eccentric character was the person responsible for our last stop of the day, the Honolulu House Museum, which serves as the Marshall Historical Society headquarters. Abner Pratt, a prominent lawyer who moved to Marshall in 1839 and later served as chief justice of the Michigan Supreme Court, was appointed U.S. consul to the Hawaiian Islands (then the Sandwich Islands) in 1857. He fell in love with the tropical climate and culture, and when he returned to Marshall in 1859, he decided to “build his own little tropical paradise here in the middle of town,” said our guide, Susan Van Zandt.
The resulting Honolulu House, therefore, included such features as 10-foot-high windows that start at the floor, which in a hot climate would let cooler air in at the bottom and allow hot air to rise. “Of course in February in Michigan, this is not a good idea,” Van Zandt noted dryly.
The judge applied this kind of impractical thinking to himself as well, with unfortunate results. He wore tropical fashions year-round, and this habit is thought to have contributed to his death, which occurred three years after the house was built. He had traveled home from Lansing, Mich., in his tropical white linen suit, encountered a snowstorm, caught pneumonia and died.
Van Zandt showed us through each room of the house, describing its elaborate decor in loving detail. Not much of the original wall painting remains; a subsequent owner, one of Marshall’s mayors, hired an artist to redecorate lavishly in the 1880s. In one parlor alone, for example, the wall and ceiling paintings contain more than 120 colors and real gold leaf.
One of the home’s most striking features is its winding wooden staircase, with ornate designs painted onto the walls beside it and the ceiling. The house has no second-floor bedrooms, and the stairs lead only to the attic and roof. Historical society staff believe the judge built it to make the house seem larger and grander.