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Continued: Galena in the modern age

  • Article by: CATHERINE WATSON , Special to the Star Tribune
  • Last update: July 13, 2013 - 4:54 PM

“These projects have a value in terms of our footprint on the planet,” Moran said. “We’re trying to be more sustainable as a community.”

That’s why city government is testing LEDs in its stoplights, why its recycling program now handles batteries, prescription drugs and every kind and size of electronics, even why City Hall is pushing “My Green Galena” tote bags.

“We’re just temporary caretakers” for Galena, Moran said. “We want to be able to hand it off better than we found it.”

The biggest changes ­— though not yet tangible ­— are expected to come from a communitywide project called Galena 2020: Residents were asked to vote on what they most valued about Galena life, and citizen task forces are now figuring out how to preserve and improve ­— and pay for ­— the top half-dozen priorities by the year 2020.

One priority is the history museum. In addition to the holograms, it has venerable exhibits ranging from one of Grant’s cigar butts, to an actual lead mine found under the building, to a computer program that lets visitors explore the history represented by its prize exhibit, a 9-by-12-foot oil painting called “Peace in Union.” It depicts Robert E. Lee surrendering to Grant at Appomattox, as a crowd of other officers looks on.

“Attention spans are so tiny now,” museum director Nancy Breed explained, that visitors used to quickly move on. Now, they tend to linger. I did, too. The computer lets you choose a man in the painting, find him on the screen, click and read the first page of his biography. Keep clicking, and more and more details come up.

That bronze-skinned officer toward the back, for example ­— click ­— is Ely S. Parker, a brilliant Seneca Indian who was one of Grant’s adjutants, at a time when American Indians weren’t yet citizens. Click some more, and you learn he helped write the terms of Lee’s surrender.

But there’s a lot more history to cover, and the museum doesn’t have enough room “for the big stories about Galena that we have to tell,” Breed said. The next 2020 step will be asking experts to determine the size, location and type of space needed for the museum’s extensive collection, now mostly in storage.

The Grant holograms are a glimpse of this Victorian future. They are effective enough that when the imaginary Julia gestured toward her own real-life portrait, hanging on the parlor wall next to me, I automatically turned and looked.

It’s a famous portrait, by the way ­— the only one known that was painted full-face. Julia Grant had crossed eyes and was so self-conscious that she usually posed in profile. She once asked her husband if she could have an operation to repair them, but the general said he loved “your dear eyes just the way they are.”

A downtown revival

Forty years ago, when I first saw that portrait of Mrs. Grant, time was by and large passing Galena by. Many of Main Street’s mid-19th-century storefronts were empty, and most ­— including the once-grand DeSoto House Hotel, which anchors Main Street ­— badly needed restoration.

A downtown drugstore was still displaying its aspirin and cough syrup on the original Victorian shelves ­— not because it was decorator-quaint, but because it always had. Dusty antiques and collectibles were economic mainstays, there were few restaurants and, as a local man once complained to me, “you couldn’t buy a pair of shoes on Main Street anymore.”

There weren’t even any stoplights because traffic and tourism were so low that lights weren’t really needed. The most noticeable traffic warning, in fact, was the yellow “Duck Crossing” sign at the foot of Main.

Ducks actually used it. On spring visits, I often saw mother ducks calmly waddling up from the Galena River, leading strings of fluffy youngsters and stopping big, roaring semitrailer trucks in their tracks.

There are traffic lights now, a lot of them, and they’re needed, because Galena is bustling. On busy weekends, locals complain that it’s hard to find a parking place downtown. That’s the flip side of success.

You can once again buy shoes on Main Street. Also handcrafted jewelry, rare books, European cookware, upscale clothes and homemade fudge that my chocoholic friends swear is the best in five states.

Beneath it all, though, Galena remains a small town. People still watch out for one another, and they’re willing to trust strangers in a way that’s rare in big American cities: You can still call any restaurant in town, order a meal for pickup and not need to give any more identification than your name.

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