On a warm spring morning this year, while hiking through an arid and rocky canyon, I could have sworn I was in Colorado. But I was in eastern Iowa, in a park with the odd name of "Mines of Spain." A short drive from there, atop a commanding bluff, was a grand view of the Mississippi River and three states. There lies the monument to Julien Dubuque, who came from Quebec and received permission from the Mesquakie natives to mine lead on this land, which was under Spanish control.

Such is Dubuque, where French, Spanish and Indian history flow together and where bluffs meet water. Like all Mississippi River towns, it is rich in history as well as scenery. River trade may have diminished since its lumbering and mining days, but not the reasons for visiting this city of 60,000.

Dubuque is made up of three areas to explore: the Mississippi River, the bluffs and the historic but thriving downtown.

On the river

The Port of Dubuque, a revitalized riverside complex, has boatloads of attractions for all ages. The anchor of the development is the National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium. You'll find displays of river history and geography, all manner of fish swimming in tanks representing ecosystems, and hands-on kids' activities so splashy that plastic smocks are provided. Admission is $15 for adults, $13 for seniors (age 65 and older), and $10 for ages 3-17. Admission to the 3-D/4-D Theater (4-D includes effects such as wind and mist that correspond to the action onscreen) is $6 for one show, $9 for a double feature (350 E. 3rd St., Port of Dubuque; 1-800-226-3369; www.rivermuseum.com).

The Riverwalk, a boardwalk along the riverbank, spruced up with potted flowers and benches, makes for a pleasant stroll to the historic Star Brewery building. There you can stop at the tasting room of the family-owned Stone Cliff Winery (1-563-583-6100, www.stone cliffwinery.com). Or have a drink and a bite at the Star Restaurant and Ultra Lounge. The patio provides lovely views (600 Star Brewery Dr., Suite 200; 1-563-556-4800; www.dbqstar.com).

Up high

For an eagle's-eye view of the region, Eagle Point Park, in northeast Dubuque, sits on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River, Lock and Dam No. 11 and the tri-state area of Iowa, Illinois and Wisconsin. You'll get sweeping views of the Mississippi -- wide, shimmering and lined with tree-covered bluffs -- as well as boats and barges passing through the lock, and if you're lucky, a few of the bald eagles that nest in the bluffs. Admission is $1 per car, and the road is open May 1 to Oct. 31. At other times of year, visitors may park near Eagle Point's rear entrance and walk in (1-563-589-4263; www.cityofdubuque.org).

The Julien Dubuque Monument also provides panoramic views. It's just south of the city, in the Mines of Spain recreational area, 1,300 acres of natural beauty. Once a lead mine, today it's a park rich in wildlife and woods, including 250-year-old bur oaks. You'll find 15 miles of trails, from the flat and easy to the steep and challenging. What had looked to me like a Colorado canyon -- Horseshoe Bluff -- is an old rock quarry that exposes the geological history of the area. Evidence of the Mesquakie settlement from 8,000 years ago has been found at the mouth of Catfish Creek (8991 Bellevue Heights; 1-563-556-0620; www.minesofspain.org).

In the city

Dubuque is chock-full of well- preserved buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. A couple of the best sit side by side.

The old Dubuque County Jail (36 W. 8th St.; 1-563-557-9545; www.cityofdubuque.org), in use until 1971, held Confederate prisoners during the Civil War. Built in 1857, it features limestone walls 18 inches thick and is one of only three surviving examples of Egyptian Revivalist architecture in the United States.

Right around the corner is the entrance to the Dubuque County Courthouse (720 Central Av.; 1-563-589-4470;www.dubuque county.org). Built in 1891, it's a grand building of the Beaux-Arts style. The Iowa Welcome Center can provide you with maps and recommendations for a more extensive tour (300 Main St.; 1-800-798-8844; www.traveldubuque.com).

The Fenelon Elevator, an incline railway, gives "down"-town new meaning, as you ride 296 feet straight down to 4th Street. The breathtaking view makes acrophobes temporarily forget their fear of heights. Park and pay up top at Fenelon Place, ride down, wander downtown and the port, then ride back up. Round trip is $2 for adults, $1 for children, and free for kids under 5. Open April through November (512 Fenelon Place; 1-563-582-6496; www.dbq.com/fenplco).

Barbara J. Tuttle is a Minneapolis freelance writer.