Make no mistake: There's nothing like Chicago in the summertime. But winter in the Windy City means not only are the lines shorter at the Garrett Popcorn Shops around town, but you also don't have to feel guilty about being indoors: whether admiring a muted seaside painting by Monet, enjoying a leisurely afternoon tea after a day of shopping, listening to jazz late into the nightor getting inspired at a most unusual photography exhibit.
Why go now
Vivian Maier's story turns out to be almost as intriguing as her photos -- some 80 of them are on display through April 3 at the Chicago Cultural Center. Maier worked as a nanny in Chicago for years, but on her days off, she strapped a camera around her neck, took to the streets and snapped pictures. She died virtually unknown in 2009.
But in 2007, a Chicago real estate agent, John Maloof, happened to buy a box of black-and-white photos from a repossessed storage locker. The box also contained more than 30,000 negatives. As Maloof began developing the negatives, he became captivated by the haunting images -- mesmerizing photos of the people, fashion and culture of Chicago from the 1950s to the 1990s. He realized he might be onto something -- or somebody -- special.
Indeed, he was: Vivian Maier. The exhibit is free, the photos a remarkable window into another time, and Maier's story unforgettable (www.vivianmaier.blogspot.com). The stunning Cultural Center is home to many free exhibits (78 E. Washington St.; 1-312-744-6630; www. chicagoculturalcenter.org).
Small pleasures
Impressionism aficionados have always basked in the warm glow of the Art Institute of Chicago's renowned collection -- including works by Monet, Cezanne and Gustave Caillebotte -- whose famous life-size Parisian street scene never fails to engage visitors. But stay indoors awhile longer and you can check out the Thorne Miniature Rooms, located on the lower level, below the Grand Staircase. Peering into the 68 tiny interiors is like looking down a rabbit hole -- each room meticulously crafted and scaled (1 inch equals 1 foot) with incredible detail: minuscule books in the 1720 French library, itsy candlesticks in the German sitting room (111 S. Michigan Av.; 1-312-443-3600; www.artic.edu/aic).
Take time for tea
No matter the season, shopping in Chicago never disappoints. But all those stores -- Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's, American Girl Place, Ralph Lauren! -- it can be exhausting. A break for afternoon tea is the perfect antidote. After shopping the lower floors of Water Tower Place, head to the 12th floor and Ritz-Carlton's Greenhouse Restaurant where you can sink into an overstuffed chair and sip a cup of, say, Orchid oolong tea and nibble a warm scone (160 E. Pearson St.; 1-312-573-5154). Across the street from Saks Fifth Avenue, the Peninsula Hotel offers tea in its fifth-floor lobby. Sample such delicacies as salmon on toasted brioche while the 20-foot-high windows let you overlook the snow-globe scene outside (108 E. Superior St.; 1-312-337-2888). At the Drake Hotel, afternoon tea takes place in the elegant Palm Court. Sweets such as swan-shaped cream puffs are accompanied by the Palm Court's specialty tea blend (140 E. Walton Place; 1-312-787-2200).
Hot jazz and cool blues
Chicago's long cold evenings are made for hunkering down in a dimly lit club and listening to some of the best jazz and blues in the Midwest. Longtime favorites include Andy's Jazz Club in downtown Chicago (11 E. Hubbard St.; 1-312-642-6805) and the legendary Green Mill -- where musicians have been known to jam all night long (4802 N. Broadway Av.; 1-773-878-5552). At acclaimed blues club Buddy Guy's Legends, midwinter is when you'll most often catch Buddy at home performing (700 S. Wabash Av.; 1-312-427-1190).
Skating, or a movie
If you really feel you have to be outside, there's always ice skating at Millennium Park in the heart of downtown and with the city skyline as a spectacular backdrop. Afterward, warm up with sugared churros and hot chocolate at Rick Bayless' XOCO (449 N. Clark St.; 1-312-334-3688). Back in your hotel room, you can open a bag of Garrett's popcorn, click on a movie, order in a Lou Malnati's pizza -- and not worry about wearing a swimsuit for at least a few more months.
Donna Tabbert Long is a freelance writer from St. Anthony.
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