Park to pier, Chicago sites are family friendly

Entertaining children doesn't mean depriving parents. That's especially true in Chicago, where excellent restaurants abound, culture takes many forms, and most major sites lie within a walkable, relatively clean and safe area. Here are some places to bring the kids.

WHAT TO DO

Adler Planetarium: Budding astronomers head to this spot for shows on the night sky as seen before light and air pollution obscured many stars. The Adler also boasts nine exhibition galleries (1300 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 1-312-922-7827).

American Girl Place: Want to have your doll's hair done by a pro? It can happen at American Girl Place, a three-story extravaganza of expensive dolls, a doll hair salon, doll and owner look-alike outfits, and countless girly doodads. The giddiness factor is off the charts and (I'll admit) somewhat infectious. My daughter, her doll and I had dinner (last seating at 5:30): mediocre food, memorable experience (111 E. Chicago Av.; 1-877-247-5223).

The Art Institute of Chicago: The museum is just south of Millennium Park. It's known for its Impressionist collection, but don't miss the Thorne Miniature Rooms, 68 interiors reminiscent of dollhouses. Next door is the Kraft Education Center, which offers family-oriented gallery walks, displays original illustrations from children's books, and houses a children's library (111 South Michigan Av.; 1-312-443-3600).

Field Museum: King Tut's goodies reside at this vast museum until Jan. 1. If Egyptology isn't your thing, you may be happy to know that Sue, one of the world's best preserved T. Rex skeletons, still presides over the main hall. Especially because of the Tut exhibit, the museum is packed. Arrive early for the best chance of relatively clear viewings throughout the museum, and get tickets for Tut in advance (1400 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 1-312-922-9410).

Magnificent Mile: On the shopping strip of N. Michigan Av., you'll find Gap and Marshall's and, on the other end of the spending spectrum, Burberry's and Louis Vuitton. The foot traffic is heavy, so mind your stroller. No money to spend? Go anyway, if only to explore the stone blocks set into the Tribune Tower (435 N. Michigan Av.). They come from famous places around the world, including the White House, Edinburgh Castle, and from Minnesota, a block from the site of the Kensington Runestone.

Millennium Park: This 24-acre wonderland of sculpture, architecture and landscape design takes up the northwest corner of Grant Park. It contains the Pritzker Music Pavilion, designed by architect Frank Gehry; "Cloud Gate," a jellybean-shaped mirrored sculpture, and Crown Fountain, a shallow pool flanked by pillars that project the images of Chicagoans. It also has umbrella-topped picnic tables -- and it was easy to get one even on the busy evening of a Yo-Yo Ma performance. This was our favorite place to play (1-312-742-1168).

Navy Pier: At this entertainment center on a pier jutting into Lake Michigan, you can rent bikes and hop on the nearby lakeshore cycling path, jump on a Shoreline lake taxi to the Museum Campus (home of the Adler Planetarium, the Field Museum and the Shedd Aquarium), or just stay put for a host of other entertainment options. There are rides, including a carousel and a 15-story Ferris wheel, a variety of chain restaurants, the Chicago Children's Museum, the Chicago Shakespeare Theater, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows and an Imax theater (600 E. Grand Av.; 1-800-595-7437).

Lincoln Park Zoo: Sun bears, pygmy hippos, giraffes: This zoo has all the favorites, including free admission. But beware the parking fee. I paid $18 for a five-hour stay at the zoo and nearby beach (2200 N. Cannon Dr.; 1-312-742-2000).

Shedd Aquarium: We got close enough to beluga whales to taste their spray -- and that was just on our way to the big act: the dolphin show. We arrived early in the day and headed straight for the show so we'd get good seats. I'd recommend it. The view from the stands is of Lake Michigan, and all that sitting will give your feet a rest before you get engrossed for hours at the tanks. Another tip: Skip the crowded and noisy cafeteria in favor of the Soundings Restaurant. We had a view of the lake, a doting server and a bass sandwich and kids' pasta for $25 (1200 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 1-312-939-2435).

WHERE TO EAT

Fox and Obel: Not in the mood for a restaurant? Grab a meal-to-go (anything from sushi to wine, bread and imported cheese) at this gourmet shop and carry it back to your hotel. The taste and price will beat room service (401 E. Illinois St.; 1-312-410-7301).

Frontera Grill: Famed chef Rick Bayless owns this joint; that means the place is popular -- and the food delicious. The restaurant takes few reservations. Just show up at or before 5 p.m., when doors open. The children's menu, which arrives at the table with crayons, includes cheese quesadillas and chicken enchiladas (445 N. Clark St.; 1-312-661-1434).

WHERE TO SLEEP

Anyplace near Navy Pier will bring you within walking distance of Millennium Park and the Magnificent Mile. I stayed at Swissotel, which offers children's suites that come with tickets to the Shedd Aquarium, games and puzzles, and fish-themed bedding (323 E. Wacker Dr.; 1-312-565-0565). Also in the area are the Holiday Inn (300 E. Ohio St.; 1-800-972-2494) and the Hyatt (151 E. Wacker Dr.; 1-312-565-1234).

GETTING THERE

Our threesome made the roughly seven-hour drive to Chicago; my daughter and I sent Dad back to work early and returned on the train. Having experienced both, what would I recommend? Perhaps an airplane.

Most hotels charge between $20 and $40 to park each night, a hefty price for an object you basically don't need once you arrive. As for the train, well, it was lovely once we actually got aboard. The train was delayed out of Chicago by more than two hours.

Kerri Westenberg • 612-673-4282 • kwestenberg@startribune.com