YOUR GUIDE TO THE TWIN CITIES
No city does parks like Manhattan. Add Governors Island and the High Line, two relative newcomers, to your list of must-see green swaths in the Big Apple.
When the can-do residents of a gentrifying neighborhood in Lower Manhattan started talking about what to do with an abandoned train line hovering over them, it quickly became clear that a park was the best option.
After much discussion, fundraising and creativity, the Friends of the High Line helped raise enough money -- $50 million -- to preserve a 1.5-mile section of track, which was built in the 1930s to keep the rattle and clang of freight trains above the sidewalk. In June 2009 the High Line opened as a 6-acre park above the street with walking paths and gardens. In the process, it brought urban green space to new heights.
Why go: It's a boon to people who live in a part of the city that has few parks. For tourists, it's a must-see, if only to appreciate the potential that so many residents saw in a neighborhood eyesore.
Don't miss: Views of the Hudson River between brick buildings and glassy high-rises, scenes you can get nowhere else. Also be sure to check out the sundeck chairs, where the sun is worshiped by those who have escaped the concrete jungle.
What to expect: Don't pack your Frisbees and soccer balls. Instead, plan to grab a spot on a park bench with a book and something to sip. The people-watching here is outstanding, as tourists from around the world mix with locals seeking respite from the din of the city.
Eating: Lots of options, including several local food vendors who set up along nearby neighborhood streets. There are also approved vendors on the High Line itself. On a particularly hot and humid day, I was happy to see a pair of costumed vendors selling juice from coconuts they hacked open right in front me. There was also ice cream and coffee. Going upscale? There are several options along 10th Avenue; my favorite is the Standard Grill on the ground floor of the Standard Hotel. You'll find plenty of prime outdoor seating and an A-list clientele that comes here to see and be seen.
Getting there: The High Line is in the Meatpacking District on the Lower West Side of Manhattan, between 34th and Gansevoort Streets and 10th and 11th Avenues. Only the first section of the park, between 20th Street and Gansevoort, is open. Plans are underway for the remainder. There are currently five access points, including two that are handicapped-accessible, and the park is straddled by the glass-and-concrete Standard Hotel.
Hours: Open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
More info: A website run by Friends of the High Line includes an up-to-date blog with photos and news from the park, as well as a list of activities. Sign up for a High Line tour with volunteers and staff members who can describe the sometimes-not-so-obvious significance of various plantings, including some in honor of the invasives that grew along the abandoned rail lines. You can also download a map that shows how to get there via subway or bus. Go to www.thehighline.org, or call 1-212-500-6035.
Governors IslandThis park is not new, but access to it is: Until a few years ago, Governors Island was closed to the public. The speck of land off the southern tip of Manhattan has a storied past. American Indians used it as a fishing camp; a Dutchman purchased it from the Indians for two ax heads, a string of beads and a handful of nails; the British took it over from the Dutch; Americans kicked out the Brits.
Given its strategic location, it was used as a military base until 1996. Now, in a complex arrangement, the island is owned by the city and state of New York, and is open to the public, weekends only, for the first time in hundreds of years.
Why go: All summer long there are shows, gatherings and various events, many that feature artists and musicians who use the island as a quiet place to hone their craft. Kids come here, too, to participate in music programs and various camp activities. It's also a good place to bike; cars are prohibited.
Don't miss: The island has a 22-acre national monument that includes two 1812-era forts built to protect the city and harbor, and there's a charming historic district lined with colorful officers' houses. Find out about the history by touring the forts. Laze in hammocks on Picnic Point, and kick back at Water Taxi Beach, where you can eat at the cafe, listen to live music and play volleyball.
What to expect: Here, you can relax and save money. Although Governors Island is only a few minutes from Manhattan, you'll feel like you're worlds away. And there's virtually nothing to buy, so you can leave your credit cards behind.
Eating: You'll find an ice cream and snack stand and a restaurant at Water Taxi Beach. On summer weekends there's a farmers market with fresh produce and cut flowers, including some from the island's three-acre organic fruit and vegetable farm. Picnics are encouraged.
Getting there: The island is just 800 yards from the south tip of Manhattan. Catch the Governors Island Ferry next to the Staten Island Ferry in the Battery Maritime Building at 10 South St. The ride takes only 12 minutes.
Hours: Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from June 5 to Oct. 10. The ferry ride is free and there's no admission fee to the island. On Fridays, bike rental for an hour is free.
More info: Go to www.govisland.com, which provides information about subways and buses to the ferry terminal, and a detailed schedule of summer events.
Jim Buchta • 612-673-7376
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