How great is this? What just might be one of the Twin Cities' tiniest commercial kitchens is now the realm of one of the area's most influential chefs. Yep, that's Ken Goff -- the former longtime chef at the Dakota Restaurant & Jazz Club -- leading the cooking at the Bryant-Lake Bowl.
“As I’ve gotten older, I appreciate a truly great restaurant experience because I have a better understanding of what went into making something wonderful,” said Goff in a statement (that's Goff, above, in a 2013 Star Tribune file photo).
Since leaving the Dakota in 2005, Goff has been teaching a new generation of culinary professionals at Le Cordon Bleu in Mendota Heights.
Goff, one of Minnesota’s first chefs to emphasize local sourcing, has a resume that reads like a fantastic walk through late 20th-century Twin Cities dining, peppered with storied names such as La Tortue, 510 Groveland, the Loring Cafe, Faegre’s and Nigel’s before his two-decade tenure at the helm at the Dakota.
Here's an indication of the length of Goff's impressive career: His first mention in the Strib’s archives is a 1987 three-star review of Faegre’s, by my former colleague Jeremy Iggers. There are of course several dozen subsequent mentions. One that stands out is from a 1990 Taste feature because it includes a recipe that Goff made famous during his Dakota years, for brie-apple soup. Doesn't that feel like a perfect fit for today's cool and rainy weather?
MINNESOTA BRIE AND APPLE SOUP
Makes 3 to 4 quarts.
3/4 c. chopped onions
1/2 c. finely sliced leeks
1 1/2 lb. tart apples, peeled and cored
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. dried thyme
2 quarts whipping cream
6 small red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-in. dice
1 whole branch fresh rosemary
1 lb. domestic Brie cheese, cut into pieces
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Apple and rosemary, for garnish
In a large pot over medium heat, stew onions, leeks and apples until onions are well softened. Add chicken stock, bay leaves and thyme. Bring to a boil and cook until onions are completely tender.
Remove bay leaves.
In a separate heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat, cook cream, potatoes and rosemary until potatoes are completely softened. Remove rosemary. Combine contents of both pots and carefully puree in a blender a batch at a time, adding cheese bit by bit. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve garnished with a very thinly sliced apple and a sprig of fresh rosemary.
Peach season is in full swing (I spied this beauties -- direct from Coloma, Mich. -- on Saturday, at the East Town Market in Milwaukee). Take advantage with this can't-miss cobbler recipe. I've never made a better one.
Serves 6 to 8.
Note: From Williams-Sonoma.
1 1/4 c. flour
1/3 c. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
7 tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes
1 egg yolk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 tbsp. very cold water
3 lb. peaches, peeled, pitted and each cut into 8 slices
1/4 c. plus 2 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. granulated sugar, divided
1/4 c. plus 2 tbsp. firmly packed light brown sugar
2 1/2 tbsp. cornstarch
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 egg, lightly beaten
Vanilla ice cream for serving
To prepare dough: In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine flour, sugar and salt and pulse just to combine. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal, with butter pieces no larger than small peas.
In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolk, vanilla and cold water. Add egg mixture to flour mixture and pulse just until dough pulls together; do not overmix.
Transfer dough to a work surface, pat into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
To prepare cobbler: When ready to bake, preheat an oven to 425 degrees.
In a large bowl, stir together peaches, 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar, the brown sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice and nutmeg. Transfer to a 2-quart rectangular baking dish and scatter butter pieces on top.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll out cobbler dough to a ¼-inch thickness. Tear dough into 3-inch pieces and place on top of peach filling. Brush dough with beaten egg and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar.
Bake cobbler for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350ºF and bake until topping is browned, 50 to 60 minutes more.
For those who won't be among the 2,000 sitting down to dinner on St. Paul's Victoria Street on Sept. 14 for Create: The Community Meal (read the story here), consider re-creating the meal at home with these recipes, adapted from the chefs behind the event.
Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. Adapted from SunnySide Cafe chef/owner James Baker for Create: The Community Meal.
1 tbsp. paprika
1 chicken, cut into pieces
1/4 c. low-salt soy sauce
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. freshly grated ginger
1 tbsp. Old Bay seasoning
1/4 c. honey
Rinse chicken in water and pat dry, using paper towels. Rub paprika on chicken. In a small bowl, combine soy sauce, ginger, pepper and Old Bay seasoning. Arrange chicken in a non-metallic baking dish (using one that just fits the chicken), pour marinade over chicken, cover and refrigerate overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375. Remove cover from chicken and bake 40 minutes. Remove chicken from oven, brush with honey and bake an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oven, transfer baking dish to a wire rack to cool chicken for five minutes, and serve.
Serves 8 to 10.
Note: Adapted from Shegitu Kebede, co-owner Flamingo Restaurant in St. Paul. “The Flamingo Restaurant only serves this dish when green beans are in season,” writes Seitu Jones of Create: The Community Meal. “The green beans in the Fosolia for Create: The Community Meal will come from the Hmong American Farmers Association.”
1/2 onion, thinly sliced
2 1/2 lbs. green beans, halved and ends trimmed
1/2 lb. carrots, peeled and julienned
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1/4 jalapeno pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a large skillet over medium-low heat, slowly saute onions until caramelized. Add green beans, carrots, green pepper, red pepper, jalapeno and garlic and saute, stirring occasionally, until vegetables have slightly softened. Season with salt and pepper, transfer vegetables to a platter and serve.
People, bake these cookies. Today.
Armed with the knowledge of my interest in cookie-baking, my colleague Kim Ode appeared at my desk, tempting me with "something I thought you would find interesting," she said. And how.
She handed me a catalogue-sized teaser from publisher Simon & Schuster, a promotion piece for the upcoming cookbook by the inventor of the Cronut, Dominique Ansel.
It's unclear if the recipe for the nation's most talked-about pastry (a kind of doughnut-croissant smash-up) will be included in "Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes." While the publisher's sneak peak includes the book's table of contents, and a subhead under Chapter 3 reads "The Real Cronut Lesson," my guess is that it doesn't reveal trade secrets. After all, the Cronut portion of Ansel's bakery's website is peppered with words like "proprietary" and "registered trademark."
Not that this home baker is particularly interested. The prospect of deep-frying laminated dough in my kitchen triggers the kind of anxiety I normally associate with watching Shelley Duvall cope with Jack Nicholson in "The Shining," so I'll leave that daunting task to the professionals, and enjoy -- from afar -- the ritual where fanatics queue up for hours outside Ansel's New York City bakery for a crack at the Cronut.
No, we didn't discuss the scalpers' market that has mushroomed in the wake of such insane demand. As former New York Post gossip columnist Cindy Adams would famously say, "Only in New York, kids, only in New York."
Instead, Kim directed my attention to the flyer's last two inside pages, which feature a recipe for a flourless chocolate cookie with pecans. Cronut, schmonut; one glance and I knew that I'd be first in line to buy Ansel's book upon its October release.
The pictures certainly captured my attention -- truly, they epitomize hard-core food porn -- but the clincher was the author's comment at the top of the recipe, which reads, "I love making this recipe. . .because of its forgiving nature and utterly addictive results."
Yeah: Easy. Fabulous. And chocolate. Three of the best motivators for composing a shopping list.
I don't recall the last time that a rookie whirl through a recipe went so well, with so little effort. No electric mixer required, just a whisk. Sure, you'll need a double-boiler, but a rudimentary one suffices (I used a mixing bowl and a saucepan). As for the formula, it's the drop cookie at its most fundamental.
And wow, what results. I was bowled over by the cookie's intensely chocolate-ey flavor, which starts as a heavy perfume before it gets near your taste buds. Its gooey texture comes as close to voluptuous as a cookie can get. In contrast to all that melty chocolate is the barest, faintest trace of a crispy exterior. The way it collapses in your mouth is almost meringue-like.
Ansel -- who won the James Beard Foundation's coveted Outstanding Pastry Chef award earlier this month -- wisely suggests serving the cookies warm. “A glass of milk helps,” he writes.
But eating them in their not-warm state isn't exactly shabby. It's a fairly perishible cookie, lasting about two days when stored at room temperature. Not that I can imagine a batch of them hanging around that long.
I was also immediately drawn into the essay that preceded the recipe. Ansel, a Frenchman, was baffled by this country's affection for the cookie. "I had never been to America, and I had yet to taste a cookie I actually liked," he wrote, describing how, at the neighborhood bakery of his youth, his peers preferred croissants or eclairs over cookies.
"Yet somehow an ocean away, there was an entire nation that shared a genuine and unanimous love for this one triumphant product," he wrote. "No single pastry in France unites the people in the same way."
He goes on to describe his cookie-related lightbulb moment, which came from polling his American customers on their cookie habits. He concluded that everyone's favorite cookies weren't the ones that they purchased, but the ones they've baked themselves.
"For many of these people, cookies were the very first things they'd baked as children," he wrote. "These people were no longer merely tasting the flavors; they were tasting a moment in time."
Nice, right? He concludes by describing the first cookies he baked in the United States; they sound quite a bit like these flourless chocolate lovelies. Not only can the guy bake, he's also a compelling storyteller.
As for baking tips, Ansel offers a few. The dough can be refrigerated for up to three days, or frozen for up to a week. For the latter, defrost the dough in the refrigerator for a few hours before baking.
Pay close attention during the chocolate-melting step. “If even a drop of water gets into the chocolate, it seizes and turns grainy," Ansel wrote. "Double-check that all equipment is dry, and the bowl sits well above the rim of the pot to avoid the steam.”
There are two reasons why this is a prepare-the-day-before recipe. Initially, the dough feels more like a batter, so much so that you'll wonder, this is going to turn into cookies? Fear not. An overnight firming-up period in the refrigerator takes care of the problem.
But there's a second textural issue, one that comes into play once the cookies come out of the oven. "It’s great to make sure your ingredients are mixed well, but too much mixing overworks the dough and causes it to become tough," Ansel writes. "That’s why many great recipes call for a period for the dough to rest.”
I have a few suggestions. Next time I make these cookies (which will probably roll around in the next few days because, yes, they ranked that high on the Delicious-O-Meter), I'm going to toast the pecans. (Here's how: Place pecans in a dry skillet over medium heat and cook, shaking the pan often, until the nuts begin to release their fragrance, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.)
The recipe's directions call for forming balls from roughly 3 1/2 tablespoons of dough. That's a big cookie. Even when they're completely cooled, these cookies don't hold together terribly well, and I'm guessing that reducing their heft will make them easier to handle. Which is why next time, rather than using a 3-tablespoon scoop. I'm going to reach for the 2 tablespoon scoop.
You'll need roughly 15 ounces of dark chocolate. I bought two 10-ounce bags of Ghirardelli 60% cacao bittersweet chocolate baking chips at my neighborhood Lunds, at $3.99 per bag. I'll use the remaining five ounces for the next batch. But I'll probably test-drive the bittersweet chocolate chips that are sold in the bulk section at Seward Co-op.
Although Ansel doesn't mention this factoid anywhere in the recipe, this is a gluten-free cookie. Maybe the best gluten-free cookie I've ever made, although, let's face it, the competition isn't exactly Olympian. If gluten-free is an important characteristic, be sure you’re using the proper baking powder. Some baking powders contain flour, so note that the package is clearly labeled “gluten-free” before using. Corn starch is gluten-free.
FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE PECAN COOKIES
Makes about 16 to 20 cookies.
Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. From pastry chef Dominique Ansel, a preview from his upcoming cookbook, “Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes” (Simon & Schuster).
2 c. dark chocolate chips (over 60 percent cocoa content), divided
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 c. sugar
3 tbsp. corn starch
3/4 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
4 tbsp. pecans, roughly chopped
Fill a saucepan with about 2 inches of water over medium heat and let it come to a simmer. Place a stainless steel bowl on top of the simmering water (making sure that the bottom of the bowl does not come in contact with the water) and add 1 1/2 cups chocolate chips. Stir slowly with a spatula to ensure that chocolate chips are completely melted before turning off heat.
In a separate microwave-proof bowl, melt butter in microwave oven. Stir melted butter into melted chocolate. Keep mixture warm over double boiler with heat turned off.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together sugar, corn starch, baking powder and salt.
Add eggs and whisk until fully incorpoated and batter resembles the consistency of pancake batter, making sure you incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled on the bottom or side of bowl, using a spatula or scraper if necessary.
Slowly whisk in melted chocolate and butter mixture (if chocolate-butter mixture cools and begins to solidify, gently reheat it over the double boiler before incorporating).
Using a spatula, gently fold remaining 1/2 cup chocolate chips, as well as pecans, into the batter.
Cover batter tightly with plastic wrap, pressing wrap to cover surface of batter. Refrigerate overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees and line baking sheets with parchment paper.
Using your hands or a scoop, break dough into pieces roughly the size of your palm (about 3 1/2 tablespoons). Roll dough into balls. Place balls at least 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets. Using the palm of your hand, gently press the tops of the dough, forming it into a thick disk.
Bake in the oven’s middle rack until cookies are just beginning to crack on top but the dough is set on the edge and has a soft spot in the center (about the size of a quarter), about 8 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Remove from oven and allow cookies to cool on baking sheets until cookies further set, about 5 to 7 minutes. Serve warm, or carefully slide parchment paper onto a wire rack and cool cookies completely.
The VEAP building (Volunteers Enlisted in Assisting People) in Bloomington, which houses the largest food shelf in Minnesota (and offers many social services), has a new commercial kitchen, and with it a new effort to make good use of surplus fruits and vegetables. Their first project was to repurpose bananas into banana bread. They tinkered with a recipe to make it more healthful (whole wheat flour, less sugar, more bananas, less fat). See it below. Have to say it tastes mighty good.
For more about the program, go to the story.
Makes 1 loaf.
Note: For the best flavor, use bananas that have lots of brown specks on the skin and that are slightly soft. Mash bananas with a table fork, potato masher or wire whisk; it’s fine to have small lumps remaining. A large, lengthwise crack in the thin, tender top crust of a quick bread is normal. From the kitchen of VEAP (Volunteers Enlisted in Assisting People) in Bloomington.
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. sugar (packed brown or granulated)
• 1/4 c. vegetable oil
• 1/4 c. fat-free or low-fat milk
• 2 tsp. vanilla
• 1 1/2 c. mashed very ripe bananas (5 to 6 medium) (see Note)
• 1 c. all-purpose flour
• 1 c. whole wheat flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
Move oven rack to low position so that top of pan will be in center of oven. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease bottom only of a 9- by 5-inch loaf pan with shortening or spray with cooking spray.
In large bowl, beat eggs, sugar, oil, milk and vanilla with wire whisk or spoon until smooth. Stir in mashed bananas until smooth. Stir in flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon with spoon or rubber scraper just until moistened. Pour into pan.
Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Cool 10 minutes. With a knife, loosen sides of loaf from pan and remove from pan. Place top side up on wire rack. Cool completely, about 1 hour, before slicing. Wrap tightly and store at room temperature up to 4 days or refrigerate up to 10 days.
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