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Let's talk food, from restaurants and recipes to farmers markets, food issues and wine. Lee Svitak Dean, Rick Nelson, Kim Ode and Bill Ward will start the conversation.
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Posts about Locally-produced food
Papaya tree mystery at the White House
Posted by: Lee Svitak Dean Updated: October 24, 2012 - 12:25 PM
At far right, the papaya tree in a pot. Photos by Lee Svitak Dean
As I was weaving in and out of the vegetables in the White House garden in September, on a tour with the Association of Food Journalists, a small tree planted in a pot caught my eye.
Like everything else in the garden, it was labeled for easy identification: "Papaya."
"How odd," I thought at the time. "A papaya tree in D.C.? Must ask why it's here."
Cris Comerford and Bill Yosses, White House chefs
Then the tour, led by White House executive chefs Cris Comerford and Bill Yosses, moved on to look at the corn and squash off in the corner. I turned my attention to a bird house on the perimeter of the garden. Could it be a bluebird house? (It was actually a security camera disguised as a bird house.) Trailing behind the chefs, distracted by the occasional bee from the nearby White House hive, I continued to snap photos and took notes and, before long, the tour was over.
Not until I was tweeting about the garden later in the day did I remember the tree. (No live tweeting is allowed on the White House grounds for security reasons.) One of my photos showed the tree in the distance. "WH garden found in corner of South Lawn, includes seeds from Thomas Jefferson plants. Papaya tree at right," I noted on Twitter.
Then a direct message on Twitter stopped me: "It's a fig tree in the WH garden BTW."
Oh no. How could I make such a mistake?
When I returned to Minneapolis, I frantically read through the "American Garden," the new book by Michelle Obama on the White House garden and the nation's community gardens, searching for a mention of papayas. There was nothing, though there's a description of a fig tree now in the White House garden that came from the seeds of a tree Thomas Jefferson planted at his home at Monticello. I searched my photographs for any other shots that could verify what I thought was the papaya tree. Again, nothing. Doubt lingered. Perhaps I did confuse a label for a fig tree with that for a papaya, though even on a distracted day that sounded uncharacteristically careless of me.
Way too out of character, in fact. I called my buddy who had accompanied me on the trip, Nancy Stohs, food editor at the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, to see if she had, by chance, photographed the tree.
Photo by Nancy Stohs.
She had. The proof was in the photo. The papaya tree was not only in the garden, but it was full of fruit.
Still, why would there be a papaya tree in the garden, which otherwise featured fruits and vegetables found in nontropical gardens: pumpkins and chiles, kale, tomatoes and blueberries.There had to be a story behind the papaya.
I sent emails to Washington, D.C., where I was eventually directed to the appropriate -- but anonymous -- administrative source.
The papaya tree, in fact, has been in the White House garden since summer 2011. It was placed there in a pot -- presumably because D.C. is not a tropical climate -- because the National Park Service thought it would be "interesting to have in the garden." The park service cares for the grounds of the White House, which includes the garden. The tree is brought inside the White House during the winter.
Photo by Nancy Stohs.
In the summer of 2011, the papaya tree had many flowers but no fruit. In 2012, there was plenty of fruit, as the photograph shows.
Case closed. Life can go on. There are home-grown papayas at the White House. My reporting skills are intact.
For more on the White House garden (and the bee hive, security camera and executive chefs), read this earlier story.
The security camera is inside the birdhouse.
Making the most of heirloom tomatoes
Posted by: Rick Nelson Updated: September 4, 2012 - 9:34 AM
Locally raised heirloom tomatoes, in all their colorful glory, are pouring into farmers markets and stores, including my go-to grocer, the Seward Co-op. I'm finding it impossible to walk through the store's produce section and not buy them. That's exactly what happened to me yesterday, and when I got home I remembered a recipe from former Chet's Taverna chef (and now Three Sons Meats Co. owner) Mike Phillips, from a story published in Taste in 2003.
I made it for dinner last night (modifying it slightly, see below), and yes, it was every bit as lovely as I remembered; the tomatoes' color and flavor really shine, enhanced by a tomato-fortified vinaigrette and tons of basil. "You don't need to do a whole lot with tomatoes," is what Phillips said in the story. "They're so good on their own that you don't want to mess them up too much. Personally, I like to do what my grandma would do, which is make a tomato sandwich, just sliced tomatoes and mayonnaise on toast."
Same here. But I'll also be making this salad again in the coming weeks. It's too good to wait until next year's tomato season.
HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD WITH GREENS AND CROUTONS
Serves 4.
From Mike Phillips, formerly of Chet's Taverna in St. Paul.
1/4 loaf crusty bread
1 clove garlic
6 to 10 different heirloom tomatoes
1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish
2 tbsp. plus 2 tsp. cider vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 c. micro greens or baby greens
20 medium-size basil leaves
Directions
Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Break bread into bite-size pieces, place on a baking sheet and bake until lightly brown, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven, cool slightly, rub with garlic and reserve.
In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, quickly sear all sides of a large tomato, charring the outside without cooking the tomato too much. Cool tomato, then core and seed and puree in a blender.
In a medium bowl, whisk tomato puree with olive oil and cider vinegar, season with salt and pepper to taste and reserve. In a large bowl, toss greens, basil, croutons and 4 to 6 tablespoons of vinaigrette and divide among four plates. Slice (or halve, or quarter) tomatoes, depending upon size, and arrange on the four plates, mixing colors and sizes. Garnish with salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.
A fair freebie with lasting appeal
Posted by: Rick Nelson Updated: August 29, 2012 - 11:53 AM
It's back, and better than ever.
The Minnesota Cooks calendar is a perennial freebie favorite at the Minnesota State Fair, and with good reason: It's useful, it's beautifully photographed (by Twin Cities photog Katie Cannon) and it's full of fascinating glimpses into Minnesota farms, specialty food producers and restaurants. And it is loaded with recipes, including an heirloom tomato-basil salad that's definitely going on my Labor Day weekend cooking rotation (see below).
This year's 10th-anniversary edition is available, while supplies last, at the Minnesota Farmers Union outpost on Dan Patch Av. and Cosgrove St., just inside the fair's Snelling Av. entrance. While you're there, don't miss the Union's fantastic Frozen Mocha on a Stick, an espresso-infused play on the Fudgsicle, made at St. Paul's Grand Ole Creamery.
SUMMER HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD
Serves 4.
From "Minnesota Cooks," by chef Montana Rasmussen of River Rock Coffee in St. Peter, Minn.
For basil vinaigrette:
1/2 tbsp. thinly sliced garlic
1/4 c. red wine vinegar
1/8 tsp. Maldon or kosher salt
1/2 tsp. honey
1 c. extra-virgin olive oil
1 c. loosely packed fresh basil leaves
For salad:
3 c. cooked quinoa, cooled
2 4-inch sprigs fresh tarragon, minced
7 fresh garlic chives, minced
12 fresh chives, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 c. mixed greens
2 to 3 heirloom tomatoes, such as Brandywine or Sungold, sliced
1 c. cherry tomatoes, halved
Edible flowers such as bachelor buttons, nasturtiums or chive blossoms, optional
Directions
To prepare basil vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine garlic, salt and red wine vinegar. Let marinate for a few minutes, then add honey and stir until dissolved. Taste and adjust salt, if needed. Pour mixture into a blender, slowly adding olive oil until emulsified. Add basil leaves and pulse briefly. Pour mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, reserving both liquid and pureed basil. (Refrigerate unused vinaigrette for up to 1 week; shake before using).
To prepare salad: In a large bowl, combine quinoa, reserved basil puree, tarragon, chives and 2 tablespoons basil vinaigrette. Gently toss until just combined. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
To serve, divide greens among four salad plates. Top with sliced tomatoes. Scoop approximately 3/4 cup quinoa grain salad over greens and a handful of cherry tomatoes. Dress lightly with basil vinaigrette, salt and pepper. Garnish with edible flowers (optional) and serve.
Who is Master of the Market? Sameh Wadi wins the competition
Posted by: Lee Svitak Dean Updated: August 22, 2012 - 3:22 PM
It was a tough choice to make, to determine the best entry: a beautifully designed beer-cheese BLT soup by Jack Riebel of Butcher & the Boar, or a fragrant three-course meal of an heirloom tomato salad with charred-tomato vinaigrette, a trout and vegetable tagine, and a chilled melon soup for dessert from Sameh Wadi of Saffron. That was the decision the judges had to make Saturday during the Chef Challenge at the Minneapolis Farmers Market, an event held in multiple cities, sponsored by Country Financial and, here, the Minneapolis Farmers Market.
The chefs had 20 minutes to find their foods of choice at the market, and $50 to spend, followed with 30 minutes to prepare their dish. Jack and Sameh raced through the aisles of the very crowded market (or at least they tried to; it was tough to get customers to move out of the way), grabbing the tomatoes, cantaloupe, trout, bacon, bread and more to be used in the prep.
Jack, at right, relied on what he called "the three killer 'Bs' for his dish: beer, bacon and bread. Each chef was allowed to bring two ingredients to the event. Jack brought vinegar and beer; Sameh also turned to vinegar, as well as his own spice blend.
"This is more stressful than Iron Chef. It's Jack Riebel," said Sameh at the start of the competition. By 11 minutes from deadline, Jack noted, "Stress, stress, stress."
But neither seemed too stressed; they were calmly -- though hastily -- at work, focused on the end results.
I was one of the four judges, who included food blogger Stephanie Meyer and WCCO-TV weekend anchors Matt Brickman and Jamie Yuccas.
Take a look for yourself at the completed dishes. Jack cooked and plated a stunning soup in the very formal, elegant method of first presenting the soup ingredients without the broth, then at the table slowly pouring in the liquid. No matter how many times I've had soup presented this way, it makes me swoon. See the tomatoes, maple-glazed bacon and green onion? That's a slice of gouda atop the bacon and the mild beer-cheese broth also uses the cheese. It was a real stunner. Here's how the dish was initially served before the liquid was added, followed by a photo after the addition of the beer-cheese broth.
Deconstructed BLT Soup
Serves 4.
From Jack Riebel of Butcher & the Boar.
Serves 4.
From Jack Riebel of Butcher & the Boar.
Beer Cheese Soup:
• 2 tbsp. chopped garlic
• 1½ c. chopped onion
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tsp. salt
• 48 oz.. (6 c.) beer
• 3 c. Gouda cheese, grated
• 3 c. Havarti, grated
Tomato and bacon garnish:
• 8 slices bacon (Riebel used Thielens)
• 1 c. diced bread
• 1 lb. heirloom tomatoes, blanched and cut into large pieces
• 2 tbsp. maple syrup, divided
• 2 tbsp. red wine vinegar, divided
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tbsp. olive oil, or to taste
• 1 sprig fresh basil
• 1 green onion, sliced thin
• 1 jalapeno sliced thin
Directions
Sweat garlic, onion, olive oil and salt over low heat just until sizzling. Add beer and simmer 10 minutes.
Pour into blender and blend until smooth. Add cheese and blend until smooth. Pass through strainer; set aside.
Pour into blender and blend until smooth. Add cheese and blend until smooth. Pass through strainer; set aside.
Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan set over medium high heat, brown bacon until crisp. Remove bacon to paper towel and drain.
Reserving the fat in the pan, return pan to heat and add diced bread and cook until crisp but not burned. Add oil if necessary. Season with salt and pepper, and reserve.
Place tomatoes into a bowl ; stir in 1 tablespoon each of maple syrup and vinegar. Season with salt, pepper and olive oil to taste. Tear basil leaves and stir into tomatoes.
Place the remaining vinegar and maple syrup into the sauté pan. Return to heat. Add cooked bacon and stir, reducing liquid to a syrup. Season liberally with pepper and reserve.
To assemble: Divide tomatoes among 4 bowls. Garnish with bacon, croutons, green onions and sliced jalapenos. Pour beer-cheese soup around edges, and serve.
Sameh presented a three-course meal, starting with a salad of heirloom tomatoes with a charred-tomato vinaigrette. The fragrance was wonderful. The dressing was drizzled on the salad at the table. (Again, a swooning moment.)
Heirloom Tomato Salad With Tomato Vinaigrette
Serves 4.
• 5 heirloom tomatoes, (3 sliced thinly, plus 2 whole for vinaigrette), divided
• 1 tbsp. sherry vinegar
• 3 tbsp. olive oil
• 1/4 jalapeno (no seeds)
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 pint (2 cups) raspberries
• A few fresh basil leaves
Directions
To make vinaigrette: Char 2 tomatoes over flame until mostly black. Do not rinse off the charred bits. In a blender, combine tomatoes with vinegar, olive oil, jalapeno, salt and pepper. Process until smooth. Pour over sliced tomatoes. Garnish with fresh basil leaves, raspberries, salt and pepper.
Second course from Sameh was a seafood tagine made with rainbow trout and vegetables (zucchini, patty-pan squash and corn in the mix), mixed with North African spices, a blend called ras el hanout. The dish was originally presented in a cobalt blue tagine, then dished up individually for the judges.
Trout Tagine with Ras El Hanout and Corn Broth
Serves 3.
Note: Tagine is a type of dish found in the North African cuisines of Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia, which is named after the special pot in which it is cooked. They are slow-cooked stews braised at low temperatures, resulting in tender meat with aromatic vegetables and sauce. If you don’t have a tagine pot, this recipe could also be prepared in a covered baking dish. This is one of the winning recipes in the Chef Challenge from Sameh Wadi of Saffron restaurant. The recipe calls for a Moroccan spice blend called ras el hanout, which varies considerably depending on who makes it. Wadi uses his own blend of 29 spices that he sells at Saffron and online at saffronMPLS.com/spicetrail.html. Other blends can be used and would be available at Middle Eastern stores, as well as at Kitchen Window (3001 Hennepin Av., Minneapolis, 612-824-4417). The blend typically includes cardamom, clove, cinnamon, ground chili peppers, coriander, cumin, nutmeg and turmeric. If not using Wadi’s spice mix, adjust the amount to your taste.
• 2 c. corn stock (see directions below)
• 3 ( 5-oz.) pieces rainbow trout or similar fish
• 2 tbsp. ras el hanout (a Moroccan spice blend, see Note), divided
• 4 tbsp. olive oil, divided
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced thin
• 1 large onion, sliced thin
• 3 c. fresh corn kernels
• 6 baby zucchini, halved
• 12 baby patty-pan squash, whole
• 1 c. yellow wax beans, blanched and cut into 1-in. pieces
• Salt to taste
• 1/4 c. fresh cilantro, chopped
• 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Directions
To make 2 cups corn stock: Simmer several corn cobs (from the fresh kernels you will use in this dish) with water, onions, garlic and salt for 30 to 45 minutes on medium. Strain and season with a pinch of salt.
To prepare fish: Marinate fish with a pinch of ras el hanout spice and a drizzle of olive oil for 15 minutes and reserve in the refridgerator.
Heat remaining oil in tagine or large pot. Add garlic, onion and corn; cook on low heat. Add zucchini, patty-pan squash and beans. Then season with salt and remaining ras el hanout spice. Add corn stock and reduce liquid by a quarter, with pot uncovered.
Season the fish with salt and place in the tagine with the fresh cilantro. Cook for 3 minutes on high with the cover on. Add the lemon juice and serve.
Third course from Sameh was a frothy muskmelon soup, that will definitely find a place on my summer menus.
Melon Soup
Serves 4.
Note:
• 1 muskmelon, peeled and cut in chunks
• 1/4 c. ice
• 1/4 c. water
• Juice from about 1 1/2 limes
• Honey, to taste
• 1/2 pint (2 c.) raspberries
• Freshly cracked black pepper
• Few sprigs of mint
Directions
Combine muskmelon, ice, water, lime juice and a bit of honey (amount will depend on how sweet the melon is) in blender. Purée on high; add more water for desired consistency, then taste (adjusting honey, if needed) and strain.
To serve, place soup in bowls and garnish with raspberries, a sprinkling of freshly cracked black pepper and mint leaves. Serve cold.
Stephanie Meyer, Lee Svitak Dean, Jamie Yuccas and Matt Brickman, hard at work judging the contest.
Best of local fundraisers delights guests once again
Posted by: Lee Svitak Dean Updated: July 27, 2012 - 3:22 PM
A balmy temperature, light breeze, fine food, flowers and greenery as far as you could see -- all at last night's Toast & Taste fundraiser for the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. It is, hands down, the most beautiful, tranquil fundraiser in town. Where else can you meander at your leisure, sip wine or beer (or both), nibble on appetizers and have a stunning vista -- and space to yourself. No crowded windowless ballrooms here! And the food is fresh, local and green. Oh, is that a smoke bush over there? I've never seen caladium in those colors. The white phlox are as tall as I am! What's not to love about this evening?
These four lovely ladies with their garlands of greenery, were among the guests at the event (from left, Celina Kane, Carrie Guenther of Ashley Fox Designs; Jill Leenay, arboretum staff; and Ashley Fox of Ashley Fox Designs).
Best fare among the more than 40 restaurants, wineries and breweries represented:
Without a doubt, Cafe Maude's harissa-spiced lamb kebabs with yogurt mint sauce was at the top of my list with amazingly tender ground lamb that seemed to melt-in-the-mouth. Had to go back for a second sample.
For the most elaborate dish served, the Dakota Jazz Club and Restaurant served up its crayfish boil, which is on its patio menu only Friday through Sunday this weekend from 4 to 9 p.m., for $15 a bucket that serves two. Such a fun -- and messy -- deal.
I loved the twist on the the more familiar cantaloupe/proscuitto appetizer that the Arboretum Catering staff had to offer. In this case it was watermelon wrapped in proscuitto with blue cheese crumbles and a drop of chive oil that was as lovely as it was tasty. I will be doing this at home.
Then there was the Minnesota walleye "ceviche" (actually smoked walleye since freshwater fish cannot be eaten raw) from Prairie Bay Grill in the Brainerd area, which was lovely, served atop a slice of cucumber. Several vendors used the cucumber slice to serve up apps, which is a terrific "holder" for summer entertaining.
Stood in line twice for my favorite dessert, ice cream from Sonnie's ice cream/Crema Cafe. Roasted banana and lemon cucumber were the taste treats I couldn't resist -- no photograph because I ate them before I remembered to take out the camera.
Throughout it all, musicians played in the Twin Cities' perfect setting. Great evening that supported the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum.
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