Vintage, schmintage. There might not be a more consistently delicious white wine, year in and year out, than the Dry Creek Vineyards Fumé Blanc ($12). It's got citrus and tropical fruit flavors galore, with just enough minerality to provide a marvelous mouthfeel. The finish is long and lively. Pair it with shellfish or regular fish, a fresh summer salad or almost any poultry dish.
BILL WARD

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