Fresh goat cheese -- often known by its French name, chèvre -- is an ingredient that heralds the change of seasons from cooler to warmer weather. Its bright-white color, pleasant tartness and soft texture make it a natural choice for a summer salad or an al fresco cheese tray.

But luscious chèvre also shines as an ingredient in desserts. A simple fondue can be assembled in minutes and provides a creamy, slightly tangy dip for fresh or dried fruits and chunks of toasted pound cake. Or you can showcase the cheese's mild flavor in individual cheesecakes crowned with a rhubarb compote.

Goat cheese production in Minnesota is limited but active -- and the delicious output is worth seeking out. Brad and Leanne Donnay, for example, run Donnay Dairy near Kimball, Minn., and make Minnesota's only certified organic chèvre.

"Two days before it's cheese, it was grass," said Brad -- and the time from farm to table is surprisingly short. The Donnays milk their herd twice daily and spend Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays in their small factory -- pasteurizing the milk, making the cheese and packaging it -- which is delivered to several Twin Cities retail outlets on Thursdays.

The Donnays' 10-year-old son, Joe, was one of the official tasters when they were trying to perfect their chèvre in the early days. "Some of them he'd eat and some he wouldn't," Brad said.

It's easy to see how even a kid can appreciate chèvre (which on the east side of the metro area can be found at Bass Lake Cheese Factory in Somerset, Wis., a quick hop from Stillwater). The fresh, straightforward flavor establishes the cheese's status as a crowd pleaser. And in these two desserts, the cheese is guaranteed to bring a bright note -- and maybe even some applause -- to the end of your next meal.

Andrew David Baker is an Edina writer.