Pie pastry tips from a pro

Last update: November 4, 2009 - 12:55 PM

In the Some Things Never Change Department, Taste readers in autumn 1971 were struggling with the prospect of making pie crust for the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday. Sound familiar?

For helpful hints, Taste staff writer Judith Bell went right to the source: Paul Tillinghast, chief of baking operations for the Pillsbury Poppin' Fresh Pie Shops, which later became Bakers Square.

The pie crust professional preferred shortening to lard, and always used a 50-50 mix of all-purpose and cake flour ("For a 'shorter,' more tender dough," Bell wrote). Another important tip: Cover the dough and allow it to rest in the refrigerator for several hours or, preferably, overnight.

For rolling dough, Tillinghast suggested using a lightweight, 1- to 1 1/2-inch dowel as a rolling pin -- preferably one roughly the diameter of a broom handle ("A heavier pin is harder to manipulate and makes a tougher crust," Bell wrote) -- using both hands and working with fast, smooth actions.

Also, Tillinghast skipped the whole floured-work-surface method in favor of a floured pastry cloth. "In turning, turn cloth rather than dough or yourself," wrote Bell. "Aim for making a square, which is easier than a perfect circle."

Finally, when using pie dough scraps for a pie crust, combine an even number of scraps with fresh dough and use this combination, if possible, for a bottom crust.

"A top crust should be made from fresh, unrolled pie dough," wrote Bell. "A less tender bottom crust is not as noticeable as a tough top crust."

RICK NELSON